J. Albers Colorado

[Hide Comment] What's up with the red taped biner on the first bolt? (You can see what I am talking about in the beta photo.) It was still like that today when I walked past. Is there a bad bolt? Still a project? Never taken down after the redpoint? Jul 29, 2014

Brian Fabel Lander, WY

[Hide Comment] I think that was Ben Sear's route to the left, it was red tagged while he was cleaning and working the route, not sure if it still there or not. Jun 14, 2016

bsear945 Sears Lander, WY

[Hide Comment] It was a project... Vance White got the FA its "Clean Slate" 12d. mmm The red tape was just a ghetto way of red tagging it.. I Think I had someone else do it... I don't remember Jun 14, 2016

TJ Brumme Morocco

[Hide Comment] 1st bolt definitely needs replacing. It's sticking out about 1/4" and has side-to-side play in the hole. 3rd bold is also loose. Jul 6, 2016

Ken Noyce Layton, UT   5.12b

[Hide Comment] My guide book calls this route 5.11d (2013 edition I think?) Wow, that's a sandbag, I can't think of any 5.12a that I've ever done that was harder than this route, and I can certainly think of quite a few 5.12b's I've done that were easier. Regardless of the rating though, this was an amazing route up some of the most perfect rock I have ever had the pleasure of touching. Sep 7, 2016

Simon W Nowhere Land

[Hide Comment] Balancey, insecure, and sequential long reaches, if that's your thing. Every bit of 5.12. Second that there are many easier 5.12s out there. Jun 22, 2017

Brendan Blanchard Boulder, CO   5.12a

[Hide Comment] AGREED with some of the other comments. Granted, I'm not a great technical climber, but I've sent plenty in the 12a-b/c range, and this took me the most tries of any route I've ever sent. Having great technique should be a great help on this route, not a reason to sandbag others ;) Jun 26, 2017

Ryan.h153 Boulder, CO   5.12a

[Hide Comment] I felt it was a pretty solid 12a. The crux is well defined and the sequence isn't too hard to find because there are only a handful of possible holds. Great route though! Putting the two middle bolts together in sequence felt great. Aug 22, 2018

Dan Maynard Denver, CO   5.12b

[Hide Comment] Mega sandbag, even for the Iris, but also mega classic Oct 7, 2020

mattyups   5.12b

[Hide Comment] A fantastic sandbag at 12a. There was another party working the crux sequence when we arrived -- if they hadn't been there, I suspect it would have taken much longer for us to work out the moves. A precise and powerful sequence of moves on a gorgeous wall. May be more difficult if you're short, especially if hanging draws. Jun 21, 2021

Ryan Westby Portland, OR   5.12a/b

[Hide Comment] Brilliant. One of the best of its grade at Wild Iris! Here's a video of the route: youtu.be/pyLZoBjtOko Aug 6, 2021

Paully Green River, WY   5.12a

[Hide Comment] If you miss a key foothold and don't use the right foot correctly, this feels 12b. If you figure out the footwork/layback trick from the 2nd bolt jug it feels 11d, so I can understand the original rating. Sep 18, 2022