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Routes in Fossil Hill

A Bullet for Mr. Ducky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Asian Orange S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Big in Japan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Boom Stick S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Casual Entertainment S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Channel Zero S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Enter the Dragon S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fossil Logic S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Nickel, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Furniture in Heaven S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Graboids S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hang Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hips Like Cinderella S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Merely Mortal S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No Seat in Hell S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Righteous and The Wicked, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Show Love S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Space Needle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tender Prey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Transitions S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two Ducks and an Angel S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Description

Kind of a hybrid crag, combining Wild Iris style buttress climbing on wind exposed faces, but more like the Sinks Canyon main wall in terms of height. There are more crimps here than at the Iris, and more pockets than at Sinks, but the rock is better quality dolomite than Sinks. There are about 40 routes here, described in Steve Bechtel's excellent guide.

The climbs are mostly vertical with steep bulges at the top and have between 8 and 12 bolts, for the most part (although some have up to 19 bolts). I do not think a 60 meter rope is required for anything here. Grades range from 5.10 to 5.14a.

The area is about 1000 feet higher than Sinks and is more west facing. Good in the fall and late summer evenings, but it can get hot in the middle of the day.

Classics include Casual Entertainment (5.11c), Channel Zero (5.11d/12a), Hang Fire (5.12a), Hips Like Cinderella (5.12c), The Righteous and The Wicked (5.13a), Tremors (5.13b), and When the Cubans Hit the Floor (5.14a).

Getting There

Drive all the way up Sinks Canyon, past Bruce's Camp. Continue on the paved road up the switch backs. The road is closed here from the late fall until around Memorial Day, effectively prohibiting access unless you have a snow machine or want to ski 4 or 5 miles up the road.

Just after the switch backs, look for a dirt parking lot on the left of the road with a pit toilet. Park here. The main part of the wall is not quite visible from the parking lot. You will see a really steep two track that leads straight up to the cliff. Do not take this trail. Rather, find a single track that goes up and right, passing a fence at about 200 yards. This will eventually deposit you at the main wall, near Casual Entertainment.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fossil Hill

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