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Routes in Camel Jockey

Camel Jockey S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Child's Play S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Frogger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
More Funky Than Gunky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Self Control S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ogre, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Light Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sand Digger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Steel Rain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Straight Up Crew S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wham Moe S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: John Hauf and Tim Rawson
Page Views: 7,062 total · 48/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 26, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


105 Opinions

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Description [Edit]

A great dihedral line. The true sport climber might feel as though the line is closer to 9+, but if you have any crack technique you will be constantly debating: Do I pull on the pockets or pull on solid jams and locks? Climb the right leaning dihedral on solid lock, until it fades into a small roof just before the chains. The crux of the roof is getting your feet over the lip, and as is often the case flexibility is one your best assets here. Hold onto the jugs and clip the chains.

Location [Edit]

The central dihedral on the formation.

Protection [Edit]

7-8 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Josh M.
Golden, CO
  5.9
Josh M.   Golden, CO
  5.9
The roof on this one feels great. It's well protected, but still big enough to make you feel like a rock star. Sep 2, 2008
EMT
EMT  
last time I was there (June 08) the bolt below the roof was gone... Is this still the case? If so, you're looking at a 30 foot fall if you slip before clipping the bolt at the roof. Sep 3, 2008
Josh M.
Golden, CO
  5.9
Josh M.   Golden, CO
  5.9
EMT:
I was there in late Aug. Though I can't remember the precise location of the bolts under the roof, I don't recall any absurdly long run-outs. Sep 10, 2008
EMT
EMT  
Thanks Josh
I should have been clearer. The bolt hanger was missing! Not the bolt. I'll bet some kind soul put one back on there. Sep 17, 2008
bolt confirmed, i did it a few weeks ago and it was all there. an awesome sport route with a nice enough crack to place gear on toprope or in addition to sport bolts. watch out for all the poop on the holds Sep 15, 2010
bmdhacks  
 
If you haven't also climbed Gunky down the hill in the sandstone, I highly recommend it. The similarities between Gunky's second pitch and this climb are neat: both are a textured crack corner to a roof pull. Aug 12, 2012
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
good line, but a little awkward depending on what hands you use. You need to have a good stance before the roof and reach blindly to clip the bolt (depending on how tall you are) and you would defiantly be looking at good fall if you screwed up. I also noticed that the lip of the roof has a very defined rope mark in the rock so for the bolt just above the roof it would be beneficial to use a long runner in order to clear it Mar 3, 2013

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