Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,786 total · 38/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jul 14, 2006
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


218 Opinions

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Description

This strenuous route follows a right leaning flake system with laybacks and jamming. The feet are poor in this section, so good body tension is required. The crack system deposits you into some face climb above. The crux of the climb is finding go positions to clip the bolts in the flake section.

Location

This climb begins where the main trail meets the cliff line.

Protection

6-7 bolts

Photos

Jesse Ryan
  5.10c
Jesse Ryan  
  5.10c
Great Line. A little spicy clipping some of the early clips off of the poor feet. Real fun laybacking, solid for grade (10c). Sep 19, 2006
EldoFiend
WY
 
EldoFiend   WY
 
A friend of mine (ahem, WBJ) whipped on this and racked his nuts on the rope. I very nearly did the same thing when I fell at the second bolt. Be carful. Apr 12, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
FA Jim Stegall 1996 Jun 2, 2010
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
  5.10
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
  5.10
This line has a more traditional feel to it, so those used to placing gear shouldn't feel too intimidated by it (if this was a route in Lumpy, it would likely be 9). The bottom is fairly slick at this point, but the flake is pretty featured and provides bomber hands. Sep 6, 2011
Scott Coffin
Riverside, CA
Scott Coffin   Riverside, CA
This could certainly be lead on gear if one was so inclined (I'm rather surprised that it's bolted actually) Oct 10, 2012
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
Where do you think we are Scott? Montana?? Oct 11, 2012
Scott Coffin
Riverside, CA
Scott Coffin   Riverside, CA
Pwa are you serious Nick? I feel like (apart from Lander and Ten Sleep), WY has some pretty serious bolting ethics. Not sure how it compares to Montana. I'm just saying, this line would be a fun trad lead, but I understand why it is bolted, considering the near-lack of trad lines anywhere else in the area. Nov 13, 2012
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
Scott, I'm not serious- my comment was tongue in cheek, more poking fun at Montana ethics than at you. Nov 14, 2012
Erik S. Gillis
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10c/d
Erik S. Gillis   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10c/d
agreed could be led with gear fairly safely....however this is a sport area so not many people have their rack handy. Super hard for the grade. Aug 7, 2013
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
Not a big fan of this route; a fall while clipping lower bolts will result in decking. poor feet throughout; that being said, some sweet layback moves. Jun 12, 2015
Sweet climb and 10c/d seams fair but I agree it would be 9+ in the black canyon. Aug 6, 2015
crackatoa Spiesbach
Boulder,Co
  5.10d
crackatoa Spiesbach   Boulder,Co
  5.10d
FYI Climbed this on 7/30/17 and the bolts are now to the left of the crack instead of on the right of it... I think this will help prevent awakard falls with the rope between you legs. Jul 31, 2017
Of all the routes I have done this is by far my favorite Sep 19, 2017