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Areas in Aspen Glade

Aspen Glade, The 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Cowboy King Wall 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Gun Street Wall 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12

Description

Not as popular as the front side, The Aspen Glade Area offers great stone and some nice longer hard lines for the Iris. The classic routes tend to be harder (5.11+ and up) and thus this area, despite the quality stone and stellar climbing, tends to attract less people. The harder routes here are amongst the best at the Iris.

The Aspen Glade Area is split into three sections for Mountain Project.  From Left to right they are:  Aspen Glade Main Wall,  Gun Street Wall, and farthest right is Cowboy King Wall.

This entire cliff line bakes in the sun most of the day, though it does receive a bit of shade in the late evening. As with the rest of The Iris, this crag is generally viable from mid-June to mid-October depending on the year. There are fewer trees around the cliff base than at other crags, making this a good choice for a colder day.

Getting There

There are two approaches to the backside. Option one is to park at the standard Iris parking lot and hike on the main trail past the Main Wall. Once you have passed Rising From the Plains, you will eventually reach a trail crossing. Turning right leads to the Erratic and Remuda areas. Turning left leads over the top of the ridge to the backside parking area. Continue straight ahead for Gun Street and the Aspen Glades wall. After the trail crossing, watch for a faint trail (marked by double cairns) leading left towards the center of the Gun Street Wall.

The second approach option is to park on the backside (limited parking) and hike up the steep hillside trail that joins the main trail as described above. To find the backside parking area, continue on Limestone Mtn. Road past the turnoff for the main parking area until the road curves around to the right and there is a parking area and road on the left. Park here and walk back a short distance on the main road until a trail is located heading up into the woods. Hike up the up and over the hillside until the trail junction that is described above is reached. At the junction, turn left towards Gun Street and follow the directions described above.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Aspen Glade

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
A Few Quickdraws More
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 67
All He's Ever Gonna Have
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Where Eagles Dare
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 50
Lonely are the Brave
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Trixie
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 18
All He's Got
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
 22
Fist Full of Quickdraws
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
The Quick and the Dead
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 70
Choke Cherry Eyes
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 57
Butch Pocket and the Sundance Pump
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
Spurs Equal Velocity
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 12
Don't Paint Your Wagon
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 32
American Beauty
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Snowblind
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Jolly Rancher
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
A Few Quickdraws More Cowboy King Wall
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
All He's Ever Gonna Have Aspen Glade
 67
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Where Eagles Dare Cowboy King Wall
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lonely are the Brave Gun Street Wall
 50
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Trixie Aspen Glade
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
All He's Got Aspen Glade
 18
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Fist Full of Quickdraws Cowboy King Wall
 22
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport
The Quick and the Dead Cowboy King Wall
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Choke Cherry Eyes Cowboy King Wall
 70
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Butch Pocket and the Sundan… Gun Street Wall
 57
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Spurs Equal Velocity Aspen Glade
 22
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Don't Paint Your Wagon Gun Street Wall
 12
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
American Beauty Cowboy King Wall
 32
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Snowblind Aspen Glade
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Jolly Rancher Cowboy King Wall
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Aspen Glade »

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