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Routes in The Aspen Glade

All He's Ever Gonna Have S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All He's Got S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Californios S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Drink and Wickedness S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lonesome Cowboy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Miss Yvonne Rode the Horse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mutt Ridin Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Night-Flying Woman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snowblind S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spurs Equal Velocity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trixie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Whore's Gold S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tom Addison and Greg Jennings
Page Views: 262 total · 3/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 25, 2011
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Description

Californios follows a nice line of heavily featured orange stone, beginning slightly overhanging before slowly trending to a slight slab. The line is consistently difficult without much of a distinct crux. Unfortunately the pockets are a bit sharp and the rock is rather crumbly by Wild Iris standards, but this would be a 4-star route at Shelf Road.

Begin up a leaning dihedral to an orange depression, then move left across the bulge on great pockets. Diminishing pockets keep things interesting until the line slabs out.

Location

The furthest right line on the main Aspen Glade wall, climbing a streak of orange lichen-covered rock. Shares anchors with Mutt Ridin Monkey,

Protection

~8 bolts to 2BA.

Photos

J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11c
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11c
Hey Mark,

I noticed that you left the FA portion blank. I don't have my old Piana guide handy, but if this is one of the routes that Piana lists in his guidebook as FA'ed by "guys from California" (or something to that effect) then Tom Addison is most likely the primary FA. I think there may be another 2-3 routes of his down towards Burnt Beans as well. I can ask him exactly which routes are his next time I see him. Jun 27, 2011
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.11c
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.11c
I just checked Steve's book and he lists Joe Desimone (of Face Dancer fame, among others). I think I had this confused with Mutt Ridin Monkey, which shares the same anchor. Steve lists the FA for that route as "unknown". Jun 27, 2011
Franck Vee
  5.11b
Franck Vee  
  5.11b
Did all 3 to the right-hand side of that wall (All he's ever gonna have, Mutt Ridding and Californios). IMO by far Californios is the best route and has the nicest moves. If you're looking for a nice progression in grade, this is a really good way to start your day. Jul 18, 2018

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