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Routes in The Aspen Glade

All He's Ever Gonna Have S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All He's Got S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Californios S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Buckaroo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lonely Are the Brave S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mutt Ridin Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Night-Flying Woman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snowblind S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spurs Equal Velocity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tom Addison and Greg Jennings
Page Views: 194 total, 2/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 25, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Californios follows a nice line of heavily featured orange stone, beginning slightly overhanging before slowly trending to a slight slab. The line is consistently difficult without much of a distinct crux. Unfortunately the pockets are a bit sharp and the rock is rather crumbly by Wild Iris standards, but this would be a 4-star route at Shelf Road.

Begin up a leaning dihedral to an orange depression, then move left across the bulge on great pockets. Diminishing pockets keep things interesting until the line slabs out.

Location

The furthest right line on the main Aspen Glade wall, climbing a streak of orange lichen-covered rock. Shares anchors with Mutt Ridin Monkey,

Protection

~8 bolts to 2BA.

Photos

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
I just checked Steve's book and he lists Joe Desimone (of Face Dancer fame, among others). I think I had this confused with Mutt Ridin Monkey, which shares the same anchor. Steve lists the FA for that route as "unknown". Jun 27, 2011
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11c
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11c
Hey Mark,

I noticed that you left the FA portion blank. I don't have my old Piana guide handy, but if this is one of the routes that Piana lists in his guidebook as FA'ed by "guys from California" (or something to that effect) then Tom Addison is most likely the primary FA. I think there may be another 2-3 routes of his down towards Burnt Beans as well. I can ask him exactly which routes are his next time I see him. Jun 27, 2011