Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Paul Piana (1999)
Page Views: 4,899 total · 46/month
Shared By: J. Albers on Jun 29, 2010
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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75 Opinions

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If I could give this route 5 stars, I would. Outstanding two and three finger pockets lead up a beautiful sweep of white stone. Finish the route through a tiered roof system.


The rightmost route on the Cowboy King Wall. Choke Cherry finishes to the right of the huge bulbs that American Beauty and Bronc Twister climb through.

Begin on opposing sidepulls and continue up the beautiful face above using sinker pockets.


Bolts to a two bolt anchor.


J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado
I had spent years climbing at the Iris, but hadn't done this route until Vance (the local one) told me that it was his favorite 12- at the Iris....I can't argue with that opinion. Oct 1, 2010
Best 12a ever!!! sick monos and long reach holds... if you are short the crux will seem harder Jul 26, 2012
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
Tread lightly on the upper head wall. The rock quality deteriorates quite a bit. Jul 5, 2016
Branden Michelkamp
Salt Lake City
Branden Michelkamp   Salt Lake City
Sooo close to the o.s.! Fell right as it was getting easier. A stick clip might have been nice for the start but not totally necessary. Aug 1, 2016
Flagstaff, AZ
MarcYY   Flagstaff, AZ
Really difficult start if one is short.


I am 5'0" with a -1 wingspan. Not an easy start or first move for me. Jul 24, 2017
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Erin is 5'4" and got the starting moves first try. Don't be discouraged.
This is the best route I climbed at Wild Iris. Jul 25, 2017
Banger double mono crux. Very memorable, and very improbable at the grade! Get on this one! Jan 14, 2018
Franck Vee
Franck Vee  
Felt hard for the grade. Maybe I was just soft that day. Somewhat cryptic, non-obvious sequence with hard to reverse moves. You can easily end up with the wrong hand in a pocket on the OS (or RP for that matter) if you're not careful! Jul 18, 2018