Mutt Ridin Monkey
Avg: 2.8 from 29 votes
Routes in The Aspen Glade
|All He's Ever Gonna Have S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|All He's Got S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Californios S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Little Buckaroo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Lonely Are the Brave S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Mutt Ridin Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Night-Flying Woman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Snowblind S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Spurs Equal Velocity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft|
|FA:||Tom Addison and Greg Jennings|
|Page Views:||224 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||J. Albers on Jul 8, 2013|
DescriptionMutt Ridin Monkey is a wonderful route that climbs up a beautiful section of white rock on the right side of the Aspen Glade. The crux comes early between the ground and the second clip. Leaders at their limit should be careful at the second clip because given the bolt spacing, a blown clip will put you very close to the deck (this is fixed...see comments below). That said, the climbing in this section is fun and engaging with sidepulls and pinches; not your standard Iris fare. It is rare to find such a moderate, long route at the Iris and thus I think this route is a real standout (many of the other longish routes are at least 11+).
After the second clip the rock angle slabs out a bit and the leader is blessed with a nearly endless supply of sinker pockets and good rock until a horizontal break at about the height of the big roof that Spurs Equal Velocity climbs through. At this point the route character changes slightly to smaller crimps and feet, though the grade stays moderate. Move up and right clipping the last few bolts and end at nearly the top of the cliff at two huge open cold shuts (though the shuts are open, you can't slip the rope through, so you will have to hang and thread the anchor).
LocationLocate the Aspen Glade wall and find the low roof in the middle of the wall. Spurs Equal Velocity tackles the right side of the roof. Two new routes with glue-ins (not fully equipped as of July 2013) are to the right of Spurs. The next route is Mutt Ridin.
Alternatively, find Californios, which is the farthest right route on the wall and find the next route to the left; this is Mutt Ridin.
ProtectionAll bolts (maybe 7-8 plus anchors). Be careful getting to and clipping the second bolt because a slip could be bad. From the second clip to the horizontal break, the bolting is safe but spaced; this gives the route a nice exciting feel. The bolt spacing after the break is much closer, which I assume was done to keep you from getting hurt ankles should you fall moving through the last few clips to the anchors.
The route shares anchors with Californios.