Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Aspen Glade

All He's Ever Gonna Have S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All He's Got S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Californios S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Buckaroo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lonely Are the Brave S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mutt Ridin Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Night-Flying Woman S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snowblind S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spurs Equal Velocity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Tom Addison and Greg Jennings
Page Views: 224 total, 4/month
Shared By: J. Albers on Jul 8, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


29 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Mutt Ridin Monkey is a wonderful route that climbs up a beautiful section of white rock on the right side of the Aspen Glade. The crux comes early between the ground and the second clip. Leaders at their limit should be careful at the second clip because given the bolt spacing, a blown clip will put you very close to the deck (this is fixed...see comments below). That said, the climbing in this section is fun and engaging with sidepulls and pinches; not your standard Iris fare. It is rare to find such a moderate, long route at the Iris and thus I think this route is a real standout (many of the other longish routes are at least 11+).

After the second clip the rock angle slabs out a bit and the leader is blessed with a nearly endless supply of sinker pockets and good rock until a horizontal break at about the height of the big roof that Spurs Equal Velocity climbs through. At this point the route character changes slightly to smaller crimps and feet, though the grade stays moderate. Move up and right clipping the last few bolts and end at nearly the top of the cliff at two huge open cold shuts (though the shuts are open, you can't slip the rope through, so you will have to hang and thread the anchor).

Location

Locate the Aspen Glade wall and find the low roof in the middle of the wall. Spurs Equal Velocity tackles the right side of the roof. Two new routes with glue-ins (not fully equipped as of July 2013) are to the right of Spurs. The next route is Mutt Ridin.

Alternatively, find Californios, which is the farthest right route on the wall and find the next route to the left; this is Mutt Ridin.

Protection

All bolts (maybe 7-8 plus anchors). Be careful getting to and clipping the second bolt because a slip could be bad. From the second clip to the horizontal break, the bolting is safe but spaced; this gives the route a nice exciting feel. The bolt spacing after the break is much closer, which I assume was done to keep you from getting hurt ankles should you fall moving through the last few clips to the anchors.

The route shares anchors with Californios.

Photos

Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
The work is done and the route is NOT over bolted. As it was, likely due to his number of bolts in his truck and the era, when we felt we had to look tough as sport climbers, this was done with a runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Falling when reaching the third would have likely landed you on the ground... a fall of 20 plus feet. That is no longer there and a change in the order has alleviated a long fall onto a slab up high. However, you still have to climb well above your gear up there, keeping the original character of the route.

The climb is excellent... this whole wall is excellent. The route to its right was also rebolted and goes at 11b or c. The two routes to the left are 10a ("Everything he's ever gonna have") and 11c ("Everything he's got"), the 10a being perhaps the best sport climb I've established in years. More people should visit this wall. Aug 9, 2013
J. Albers
Colorado
 
J. Albers   Colorado
 
With the permission of the FA, this route is getting an extra bolt installed between the 2nd and 3rd clips. This will alleviate any ground fall potential. While the climbing is easy in this section, leaders at their limit should be careful until the new bolt goes in (thanks to BARF and SL for the upgrades). Aug 8, 2013
J. Albers
Colorado
 
J. Albers   Colorado
 
Hah!! I saw the glue-ins and thought that might be you putting them in. When you get the second new route in, I will make sure to change my 'Location' description to note that there are two routes between Spurs and Mutt.

Glad to see new routes going in on this section of rock!!! Jul 9, 2013
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
The route right of Spurs is 11c. We have't figured out a name yet. Another route will go up in the coming days between the 11c and Mutt Ridin'. Jul 9, 2013
J. Albers
Colorado
 
J. Albers   Colorado
 
Though Mono has Californios listed as 60 feet, I think Mutt Ridin Monkey and Californios (they share anchors) must be more like 70-80 feet as the routes nearly top the cliff out. Either way, you can lower/rap with a 60 m rope.

I'm not sure why this route gets no love in any of the guides, because I thought it was a much better route than Night Flying Woman (perhaps it is too slabby for some?) To each his own I guess. Get on it and decide for yourself. Jul 9, 2013