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Routes in Baldwin Creek

Access Denied S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Amused to Death S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beelzebubba S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Brave Cowboy, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bravery of Being Out of Range, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cowboy This S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dinosaur Rock S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gimmie Shelter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grafitti Man S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Little Pedro's Mexican Tidal Wave S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Losing Streak S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mask Without a Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orange for Anguish S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Piston Hurricane S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pizza Hut Girl S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rain of Gold S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Supple Cowboy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Troubleshooter S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Two Guys Named Festus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Description

Folks have been climbing at Baldwin since 1993. It is a beautiful dolomite cliff, about 3 miles in length, 15 miles outside of Lander. It's well described in Lander Sport Climbs by Steve Bechtel. Baldwin Creek boasts the best rock in Lander and a high concentration of hard clip ups. There are about 60 routes ranging from 5.10d to 5.14c with a few projects that will check in somewhere in the 5.14 range when they finally get done. The rock quality is exquisite, pocketed, 15 degrees overhanging and deceptively hard to read.

The downside? The cliff faces south, it's hot all the time and there's only 1 shade tree on the whole cliff. Oh, you'll also need a 4wd vehicle to get up the crappy road. And then there's the 2 mile approach that sucks on the way out because it's really uphill. Winter access (when the weather would be awesome) is impossible as the road is closed around Thanksgiving.

Getting There

Leave Lander on the Baldwin Creek/Squaw Creek loop. Take a dirt road at the far end of the loop and start switchbacking up towards Shoshoni Lake. The road gets really bad at the top of the switchbacks. You park at a small pulloff near a kiosk and hike in on a faint trail from there.

If you enjoy climbing on the surface of the sun, pay attention to the graph just below. Otherwise come here as late in the fall as possible and pray for clouds.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Baldwin Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos

Crimp Nasty
Chosstown, USA
Crimp Nasty   Chosstown, USA
Is it possible to make it up here in a subaru? Jul 7, 2013
Jikimika Dinglehoffer   Lander, Wy
Suicide Point Sep 9, 2012
Joseph M.
Tucson, AZ
Joseph M.   Tucson, AZ
Saw a video about climbing a route called Wind Drinker at Suicide Point and was just curious if there was any information on this cool looking prow.

Thanks! Oct 27, 2011

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