Elevation: 6,500 ft
GPS: 42.739, -108.83 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 599,248 total · 3,412/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 24, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

Description

Sinks Canyon is a premier climbing destination. Within a few miles, the rock changes from sandstone to limestone, and then to granite as you get closer to The Wind River Range. There are fantastic climbs on the sandstone and granite, but the sport climbing on the Dolomite is where Sinks really shines. If you are not a sport climber, there is access to trad climbing on the granite and sandstone, as well as bouldering on all 3 rock types. The rock quality is generally excellent. You can find everything from hand swallowing pockets in the Killer cave to perfect overhanging crimps on the Addiction Wall. There is climbing for every ability here from 5.6-5.14c. While there are gems of every grade, the most classic climbs are 5.10 and up.

As far as access goes, it doesn't get much better than this. Sink's is the closest climbing area from town, it is about a 10 minute drive to the Main Wall parking lot, and about a 15 minute approach (depending on how atrophied your sport climber legs are). Make sure to bring plenty of water and extra layers, no matter what time of the year it is.

You can climb at Sinks all year, but the best temps are during the cooler months. While the rest of Wyoming is a frozen wasteland, the Main Wall is often baking in the sun. It can be 0° in town and you can be climbing in a T shirt. Believe it or not, the south facing side of Sink's Canyon is one of the best winter climbing areas in the United States.

Steve Bechtel's Lander Rock Climbs 2018 is a must have for visiting the area and will give you much better information and directions than Mountain Project.

Watch out for 1) afternoon thunderstorms rolling off the Winds 2) numerous rattlesnakes and 3) locals who have 'Killer' wired.

Getting There

From Lander, head southwest of town on Wy 131. It's a straight shot and you can't miss it. It is about a 10 minute drive from town.

Crags L --> R

Sinks Canyon is basically one long cliff band (plus a few boulders on the hillside with routes). Here is the relative position of the Sinks crags:

Far up canyon Granite:

Granite Buttress
The Sanctuary
The Joint
Cabin Boulders

Big break

1. Fairfield West
2. Fairfield Central
3. Fairfield East

Break

The Wilds & Achin' For Booty
Purple Galaxy
The Recess Wall
--> Squaretop Boulder (on the hillside below the Moss Cave)
Moss Cave & Face Dancer
Hardware Wall
The Citadel
--> Wave of Mutilation (on the hillside below Addiction)
Addiction
White Heat Wall
Brisket
Happy Wheel Wall
Camel Jockey
The ZoZone
Killer Cave
Scud Wall
--> Scud Pinnacle (on the hillside below Scud Wall)
Politically Correct Wall

Break

Sunny Side Crag
Shady Side

Down Canyon Sandstone

Rise Wall
Sawmill Canyon
Grade II Wall
Sandstone Buttress

DOGS!

Please keep your dogs on a leash when in Sinks Canyon State Park. This includes Scud Wall, Killer Cave, and several others up to around White Heat to the west. Dogs are the main point of contention with the State Park; let's do our best to keep them happy.

Dog Retention Units (DRU's) can be found throughout the park. Look for the cold shuts near the nice puppy pads, especially in the Killer Cave-Scud Wall region.

Camping

There are several camping options for Sinks.

Sawmill Campground- Closest access to the sink and rise of the Popo Agie.
Popo Agie Campground- Closest access to the shady side and hiking trails across the swinging bridge. Yurts are also available to rent.
Sinks Canyon Campground- Closest access to the Main Wall.
Forest Service Campground- This is the only free camping in Sinks Canyon and is subject to winter closures. Driving up the canyon, it is ~1/2 mile past the Missouri Geology Field Camp on the left

These are the campsite fees as of 2020
Off season: Oct 1 -April 30 - $6.00 Residents $11.00 for Non- Residents.
Peak Season: May 1- Sept.30 - residents $9.00 non-Residents $16.00

659 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sinks Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 81
Go West, Young Man
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 163
More Funky Than Gunky
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 214
Duck Soup
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 139
Action Candy
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 123
Boy I Gotta Go
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 84
Smithereens
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 150
Stud Alert
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 128
Elmo's Fish
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 94
Corner Drug
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 106
Harvest Moon
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 64
Face Dancer
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 76
Purple Galaxy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 118
Blue Moon
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 70
Bush Doctor
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 56
Killer
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Go West, Young Man Addiction
 81
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
More Funky Than Gunky Camel Jockey
 163
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Duck Soup Scud Wall
 214
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Action Candy Killer Cave
 139
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Boy I Gotta Go Scud Wall
 123
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Smithereens Scud Wall
 84
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Stud Alert Scud Wall
 150
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Elmo's Fish Killer Cave
 128
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Corner Drug Addiction
 94
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Harvest Moon Killer Cave
 106
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Face Dancer Moss Cave & Face Dancer
 64
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Purple Galaxy Purple Galaxy
 76
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Blue Moon Killer Cave
 118
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bush Doctor Killer Cave
 70
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Killer Killer Cave
 56
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Sinks Canyon »

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