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Elevation: 6,500 ft 1,981 m
GPS: 42.73907, -108.83038
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 24, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

Description Suggest change

Sinks Canyon is a premier climbing destination. Within a few miles, the rock changes from sandstone to limestone, and then to granite as you get closer to The Wind River Range. There are fantastic climbs on the sandstone and granite, but the sport climbing on the Dolomite is where Sinks really shines. If you are not a sport climber, there is access to trad climbing on the granite and sandstone, as well as bouldering on all 3 rock types. The rock quality is generally excellent. You can find everything from hand swallowing pockets in the Killer cave to perfect overhanging crimps on the Addiction Wall. There is climbing for every ability here from 5.6-5.14c. While there are gems of every grade, the most classic climbs are 5.10 and up.

As far as access goes, it doesn't get much better than this. Sink's is the closest climbing area from town, it is about a 10 minute drive to the Main Wall parking lot, and about a 15 minute approach (depending on how atrophied your sport climber legs are). Make sure to bring plenty of water and extra layers, no matter what time of the year it is.

You can climb at Sinks all year, but the best temps are during the cooler months. While the rest of Wyoming is a frozen wasteland, the Main Wall is often baking in the sun. It can be 0° in town and you can be climbing in a T shirt. Believe it or not, the south facing side of Sink's Canyon is one of the best winter climbing areas in the United States.

Steve Bechtel's Lander Rock Climbs 2023 is a must have for visiting the area and will give you much better information and directions than Mountain Project.

Watch out for 1) afternoon thunderstorms rolling off the Winds 2) numerous rattlesnakes and 3) locals who have 'Killer' wired.

Getting There Suggest change

From Lander, head southwest of town on Wy 131. It's a straight shot and you can't miss it. It is about a 10 minute drive from town.

Crags L --> R

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Sinks Canyon is basically one long cliff band (plus a few boulders on the hillside with routes). Here is the relative position of the Sinks crags:

Far up canyon Granite:

Granite Far West

Granite Buttress

The Sanctuary

The Joint

Cabin Boulders

Big break

3. Fairfield West

2. Fairfield Central

1. Fairfield East

Break

The Wilds & Achin' For Booty

Purple Galaxy

The Recess Wall

--> Squaretop Boulder (on the hillside below the Moss Cave)

Moss Cave & Face Dancer

Hardware Wall

The Citadel

--> Wave of Mutilation (on the hillside below Addiction)

Addiction

White Heat Wall

Brisket

Happy Wheel Wall

Camel Jockey

The ZoZone

Killer Cave

Scud Wall

--> Scud Pinnacle (on the hillside below Scud Wall)

Politically Correct Wall

Break

Sunny Side Crag

Shady Side

Down Canyon Sandstone

Rise Wall

Sawmill Canyon

Grade II Wall

Sandstone Buttress

DOGS!

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Please keep your dogs on a leash when in Sinks Canyon State Park. This includes Scud Wall, Killer Cave, and several others up to around White Heat to the west. Dogs are the main point of contention with the State Park; let's do our best to keep them happy.

Dog Retention Units (DRU's) can be found throughout the park. Look for the cold shuts near the nice puppy pads, especially in the Killer Cave-Scud Wall region.

Camping

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There are several camping options for Sinks.

Sawmill Campground- Closest access to the sink and rise of the Popo Agie.
Popo Agie Campground- Closest access to the shady side and hiking trails across the swinging bridge. Yurts are also available to rent.
Sinks Canyon Campground- Closest access to the Main Wall.
Forest Service Campground- This is the only free camping in Sinks Canyon and is subject to winter closures. Driving up the canyon, it is ~1/2 mile past the Missouri Geology Field Camp on the left

These are the campsite fees as of 2020
Off season: Oct 1 -April 30 - $6.00 Residents $11.00 for Non- Residents.
Peak Season: May 1- Sept.30 - residents $9.00 non-Residents $16.00

845 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sinks Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 213
More Funky Than Gunky
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 179
Smithereens
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 107
Sandman
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 56
Recess Time
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 113
Face Dancer
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 49
Mumble Pants
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 73
Spinal Tap
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 60
Blood Line
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 111
Purple Galaxy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 90
Bush Doctor
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 83
Achin' for Bootie
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 34
The Citadel of Hope
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 62
Addiction
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 68
Killer
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 32
Cartoon Graveyard
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
More Funky Than Gunky Camel Jockey
 213
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Smithereens Scud Wall
 179
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Sandman Wilds & Achin' For Booty
 107
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Recess Time Shady Side > School
 56
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Face Dancer Moss Cave & Face Dancer
 113
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Mumble Pants Wilds & Achin' For Booty
 49
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Spinal Tap Shady Side > Heavy Metal Rock Band
 73
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Blood Line Killer Cave
 60
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Purple Galaxy Purple Galaxy
 111
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bush Doctor Killer Cave
 90
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Achin' for Bootie Wilds & Achin' For Booty
 83
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Citadel of Hope Citadel
 34
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Addiction Addiction
 62
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Killer Killer Cave
 68
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Cartoon Graveyard Killer Cave
 32
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Sinks Canyon »

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