Elevation: 6,500 ft
GPS: 42.739, -108.83 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 439,022 total · 2,692/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 24, 2006
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

Description

Sinks Canyon is a premier climbing destination, plus its proximity to the Wind River range, Wild Iris, Fossil Hill, Baldwin Creek, and the NOLS headquarters make the Lander area something to check out. Maybe even over and over. If you haven't headed up there, maybe even check out the annual climbers fest (July - climbersfestival.org ), where Lander throws climbers a big 'ol party. This canyon has it all; three types of rock : limestone, granite, and sandstone; sport, bouldering, and trad; with alpine climbing just further up in the Winds.

The sandstone and granite are predominately trad while the limestone is mainly sport. The south facing cliffs of the Main walls and Fairfield Hill are sunny and warm, making the best season to climb here spring and fall. Rock quality is generally good to superb. The order of the cliffs on the main limestone wall from east to west (down to up canyon) is: Scud Wall, Killer Cave, Camel Jockey, Briskets, White Heat Wall, Addiction, The Citadel, Hardware Wall, Fallen Idol, The Moss/Wave Cave, Purple Galaxy, and the Wilds. Fairfield Hill (East, Central, and West) is further west (upcanyon). Watch out for 1) afternoon thunderstorms rolling off the Winds 2) numerous rattlesnakes and 3) locals who have 'Killer' wired.

For amenities, Lander is one of THE climber friendliest towns ever. You can camp in the grassy city park for free with a three day limit. There a three pay campgrounds ($10?) as you head up into the canyon, with the third located within walking distance of the main approach trails. These campgrounds are free September - April, which contains much of the climbing best season. A year-round free campground is located just 1/2 mile up the canyon on the left, after the Geology Camp. This has even has a bathroom and a trashcan, pretty sites, some accessible only via short 4WD types of roads or drag your gear into them. These can be popular with the local Lander teens. Theft has been more of a problem here, and somewhat at the pay campgrounds, according to local law enforcement. Lander has a decent collection of reasonable motels for 'that' kind of crowd. There are a handful of good restaurants, such as the Gannet Grill, a Chinese place, a Mexican joint and others. There are two grocery stores. There is a climbing gym for when you have been snowed out: Elemental Fitness (307-332-0480), 134 Lincoln Street. The National Outdoor Leadership School is centered in Lander at 502 Lincoln. You can get a showers at NOLS, Elemental Fitness, or the Lander pool.

Lander, Sinks and this area of Wyoming is something to cherish. Have fun, be respectful to the locals (including them feisty rattlesnakes), and pack out all trash.

Getting There

Head to Lander (NW of Rawlins, NE of Rock Springs) and head southwest of town on Wy 131.

Crags L --> R

Sinks Canyon is basically one long cliff band (plus a few boulders on the hillside with routes). Here is the relative position of the Sinks crags:

Far up canyon:
The Sanctuary (Granite)
The Joint (Granite)
Cabin Boulders (Granite bouldering)

Big break

Fairfield Hill

Break

The Wilds
Purple Galaxy
--> Squaretop Boulder (on the hillside below the Moss Cave)
Moss/Wave Cave
Fallen Idol/Face Dancer
Hardware Wall
The Citadel
--> Wave of Mutilation Boulder (on the hillside below Addiction)
Addiction
White Heat Wall
Brisket
Happy Wheel Wall
Camel Jockey
Killer Cave
Scud Wall

Big Break
Sandstone Buttress

DOGS!

Please keep your dogs on a leash when in Sinks Canyon State Park. This includes Scud Wall, Killer Cave, and several others up to around White Heat to the west. Dogs are the main point of contention with the State Park; let's do our best to keep them happy.

Dog Retention Units (DRU's) can be found throughout the park. Look for the cold shuts near the nice puppy pads, especially in the Killer Cave-Scud Wall region.

611 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sinks Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 74
Go West, Young Man
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 184
Duck Soup
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 145
More Funky Than Gunky
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 126
Action Candy
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 111
Boy I Gotta Go
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 102
Firecracker Kid
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 60
Smithereens
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 140
Stud Alert
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 115
Elmo's Fish
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 88
Corner Drug
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 92
Harvest Moon
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 56
Face Dancer
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 61
Purple Galaxy
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 101
Blue Moon
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 60
Bush Doctor
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Go West, Young Man Addiction
 74
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Duck Soup Scud Wall
 184
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
More Funky Than Gunky Camel Jockey
 145
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Action Candy Killer Cave
 126
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Boy I Gotta Go Scud Wall
 111
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Firecracker Kid Killer Cave
 102
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Smithereens Scud Wall
 60
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Stud Alert Scud Wall
 140
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Elmo's Fish Killer Cave
 115
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Corner Drug Addiction
 88
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Harvest Moon Killer Cave
 92
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Face Dancer Face Dancer & Moss Cave
 56
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Purple Galaxy Purple Galaxy
 61
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Blue Moon Killer Cave
 101
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bush Doctor Killer Cave
 60
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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