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Routes in Purple Galaxy

Achin' for Bootie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ain't No Mercy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Appetence S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Blood Moon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bunky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buzz Worm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cavity Search S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cold Moon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crowheart S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Diamonds in the Moon Light S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dog Star S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grabbing Greta S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kickin' Turtles S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Krymptonite S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Picture of Industry S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Purple Galaxy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Riding the Apocalypse S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Smell my Finger S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
South Paw S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sweet Beguilin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tyco S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Waiting for a Friend S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Paul Piana
Page Views: 4,534 total, 32/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 25, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Purple Galaxy busts some bouldery initial climbing up to and past the first bolt, followed by some great sequential pocket pulling. It slowly eases off as you approach the 1st set of chains. Keep going though! The upper bulge adds a nice little punch to the end of the route, with some pumpy climbing and some last minute decision making. For those who track the numbers, probably soft at 12a to the 1st set of anchors, but solid if you take the full ride.8

Location

This is the first long route (over 4-5 bolts) on the wall, located on a nice purple section of the wall, just before and to the right of a low prow / arete feature. If you see a boltrd left facing dihedral, you've just passed it.

Protection

8 bolts to 1st anchor and 4 more to final anchor, so 13-14 bolts + anchor for the full pitch. Over 25m to top anchor! So 60m rope or mid anchor pit stop needed.

Photos

Simon W
Nowhere Land
Simon W   Nowhere Land
The send doesn't count if the cheater stone pile is more than 6-8" tall =P In my case I could reach through the hardest move to a finger lock with a 2' stack of cheater stones so sent it back from whence it came!

Luckily for me I "use" the monos but I never have to pull on them.

The extension is worthwhile, and unless you are ruthlessly pumped at the first anchor, it's worth shaking out and continuing. Jul 21, 2017
aka the purple monster Oct 17, 2012
Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
you dont have to use the two monos, there are definitely ways around them for those of us that dont have pulleys of steel. getting off the ground is greasy as hell and I'd say the crux of the route, recommend stick clipping the 2nd bolt (the first you can clip from the ground). May 14, 2012
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
After climbing this thing a couple of times, one has to wonder how "enhanced" those super duper deep monos are. I'd choose to feign ignorance, because this thing has some outstanding climbing! Oct 31, 2011