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Elevation: 7,482 ft 2,281 m
GPS: 42.72912, -108.86395
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 24,942 total · 122/month
Shared By: Matt Miccioli on Sep 23, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

Description Suggest change

The Joint is a complex series of walls and terraces just past the start of the Waterfall Trail. A large chasm splits the main cliff band, and both sides of the wall have ground-level routes and a variety of upper tiers accessed by fixed lines and approach pitches. The Full Tilt and American Water sectors host all of the 5.13 terrain. Satellite craglets (e.g. Mr. Bigshot, Obscured by Clowns) just downhill offer warmups and a variety of punchy 5.11s and 5.12s.

Most of the routes are 40-80 feet long on gently overhanging, high quality stone. Expect much more stylistic variety than the dolomite climbing in the Sinks. Edges, pinches, compression rails, slopers, kneebars, and good footwork all come into play. 

Look out for snakes, poison ivy, and wayward hikers on the Waterfall Trail.

Getting There Suggest change

Park at Bruce's, cross the bridge, and walk down the Waterfall Trail for about five minutes. Look for seasonal cairns and a faint trail up the gentle hillside. From this turnoff onto the climber's trail, the small buttress known as The Moose's Hump should be visible directly above (see photos of the approach to the Moose's Hump). Switchback moderately up the hillside until below the Moose's Hump and follow cairns west across the talus to the base of the large overhanging wall with multiple tiers. The walk should only take 12-15 minutes at a casual pace once you know where to go.

NOTE: The guidebook recommends walking on the main hiking trail until hitting the talus directly below The Joint and then blasting straight up the loose blocks to the base of the wall. This approach is a good option if you're looking to train your legs for objectives like The Ogre or Latok 1 but fell out of favor with frequent visitors to the crag after the appearance of the more moderately graded and secure climber's trail. 

64 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Joint

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Golden Hour
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 40
Mr. Big Shot
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 22
Obscured by Clowns
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 20
Big Smoke
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 21
Bluebeard
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
Feel The Bern
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Self-Ignition
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
A Call to Arms
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Top Shelf
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Democratic and Cool
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 8
Honk If You're Lonely
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 8
No Peace
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 14
Full Tilt
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 12
Broken Heroes
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 5
TS Arete
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Golden Hour Mr. Big Shot
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mr. Big Shot Mr. Big Shot
 40
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Obscured by Clowns Obscured by Clowns
 22
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Big Smoke Full Tilt > First Tier
 20
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Bluebeard Mr. Big Shot
 21
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Feel The Bern Full Tilt > First Tier
 22
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Self-Ignition American Water > Upper Deck
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
A Call to Arms Full Tilt > Second Tier
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Top Shelf Full Tilt > Third Tier
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Democratic and Cool American Water > Upper Deck
 6
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Honk If You're Lonely American Water > Ground Floor
 8
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
No Peace Full Tilt > Second Tier
 8
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Full Tilt Full Tilt > First Tier
 14
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Broken Heroes Full Tilt > First Tier
 12
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
TS Arete Full Tilt > Second Tier
 5
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Joint »

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