Type: Sport, 125 ft
FA: BJ Tilden, 2013
Page Views: 169 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jikimika Dinglehoffer on Nov 26, 2017
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Description

This is a proud arete on the right side of the Joint. Going to the top of the wall, it passes several ledges. Despite having the nature of a multi-pitch bouldering circuit, the rock and movement are mega quality.

Bolted by Todd Skinner, this was his final contribution to Lander. BJ Tilden did the FFA in 2013, and on the same day Jonathan Siegrist climbed the 2nd ascent.

Pitch 1, 30 ft:
climb "Soft Option", the 5.9 corner passing a few bolts. Or scramble up onto the first tier ledge from the right side. Get established on a square pedestal with a two bolt anchor below the smooth, black arete.

Pitch 2, .12c, 40 ft:
Vertical balance climbing on nice black rock up a rounded arête. gets harder after the second bolt. Work both sides of the arête and do some crystal cranking. Has many tricky moves and is worthwhile in its own right.

Pitch 3, .13c, 55 feet:
From the final ledge, steeper moves on strange blocky slopers leads to the perfect section of laser cut, aesthetic arête, with it's best quality being it's near complete lack of holds. A few degrees overhanging on the left, and vertical on the right. Bouldery compression with huge spans, micro footholds, alternately technical, balancy, and powerful. Climbs as a V8/9 boulder through the inobvious entry moves and the hard transition to the blankest part of the arete. A decisive move to a flat jug rail is followed by a good rest and an exposed 5.12 outro to the very top of the square-cut wall.

Location

Right side of the cleanest main section of the Joint. Goes to the top. Morning sun. prepare the left hand for sweat, and the right hand for numbing cold.

Protection

All bolts.

Each "pitch" has a 2 ring anchor on top of it, as well as a comfortable ledge. You could lower off from the top with a 70 (knot the end)

Recommended to do it like a multi-pitch and bring a friend up with you for the close belay. 3rd pitch has an early crux so rope stretch would make it likely to hit the ledge if you linked pitches and fell.

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