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Routes in The Joint

1000 Churches S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ambro-agie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bad Brain S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Big Brain S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Big Smoke S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bluebeard S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Broken Heroes S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Feel The Bern S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Full Tilt S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Get Wacky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kilodeer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Big Shot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Obscured by Clowns S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
October Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rift, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TS Arete S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Ziggurat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 125 ft
FA: BJ Tilden, 2013
Page Views: 103 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jikimika Dinglehoffer on Nov 26, 2017
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

This is a proud arete on the right side of the Joint. Going to the top of the wall, it passes several ledges. Despite having the nature of a long bouldering circuit, the rock and movement are unparalleled in quality.

Bolted by Todd Skinner, this was his final contribution to Lander. BJ Tilden did the FFA in 2013, and on the same day Jonathan Siegrist climbed the 2nd ascent.

Pitch 1, 30 ft:
climb "Soft Option", the 5.9 corner passing a few bolts. Or scramble up onto the first tier ledge from the right side. Get established on a square pedestal with a two bolt anchor below the smooth, black arete.

Pitch 2, .12c, 40 ft:
Vertical balance climbing on nice black rock. Work both sides of the arĂȘte and do some crystal cranking. Has many tricky moves and is worthwhile in its own right.

Pitch 3, .13c, 55 feet:
From the final ledge, steeper moves on strange blocky slopers leads to the perfect section of laser cut, aesthetic arĂȘte, with it's best quality being it's lack of holds. A few degrees overhanging on the left, and vertical on the right. Bouldery compression with huge spans, truly micro footholds, alternately technical, balancy, and powerful. Climbs as a V8/9 boulder through the inobvious entry moves and the hard transition to the blankest part of the arete. A decisive move to a flat jug rail is followed by a good rest and an exposed 5.12 outro to the very top of the square-cut wall.

Location

Right side of the cleanest main section of the Joint. Goes to the top. Morning sun. prepare the left hand for sweat, and the right hand for numbing cold.

Protection

All bolts.
Each "pitch" has a 2 ring anchor on top of it. can link as one pitch and lower off with a 70 (knot the end) or do it like a wall and bring a friend up with you. 3rd pitch has early cruxes so consider the stretching potential and try not to deck if you have a lot of rope out.

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