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Routes in Fallen Idol /Face Dancer + Wave/Moss Cave

Billie Idol (aka "Fallen Idol" p.2) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blessed Saint Yabo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Calling Saint Fiacre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Confessions of a Mask S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Diemos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eros S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Face Dancer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fallen Idol S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fallen Idol (Pt I), The S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Good Luck Mr. Gorsky S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Kamiakin S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
MaskaBait S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
No More Heroes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poagie Bait S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Smoke Shapes S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Travelling Menagerie, The S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Winds of War S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Joe Desimone
Page Views: 3,806 total, 27/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 31, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

This fun line pulls pockets and edges with a crux between the second and third bolt, with continuous slightly easier climbing above. A small bulge guards the chains.

Location

Face Dancer is located 7 bolted lines to the left of the Fallen Idol Pillar. It is the second line up a small pedestal / ramp on the left side of the Fallen Idol face. A newer "Unknown" route (10+) starts immediately right of Face Dancer, while Wicker Man (11a) is right of this.

Protection

7 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Charlie Jonas
Jackson, Wyoming
5.11b
Charlie Jonas   Jackson, Wyoming
5.11b
Definitely didn't feel like an 11a to me (at least compared to other 11a's in the area). I felt it was solid 11 and 10+ climbing for almost the whole route. There's a lot going on so maybe I just read it wrong. Or maybe it just wasn't my style...

Either way, great climb. Nov 10, 2014
Kyle vH
 
Kyle vH  
 
Thanks for putting up this route, Joe.
It's one of my all-time favorites. I was lucky enough to onsight it, and when I think of limestone climbing, I think of this route. Jan 13, 2010
Joe Desimone
Ward, Colorado
Joe Desimone   Ward, Colorado
Not to take away from Brett Ruckman's prolific accomplishments, but for the record, he is not one who established and FA'd this route. I bolted it in the summer of 1994 with Mitsuru Kitagawa and Bruno Lanson. At the time there were no other routes on this wall. Totally empty. I was inspired to bolt it because the rock on this portion of the cliff is somewhat polished in places and it shines quite brightly when the sunlight strikes it at certain times in the day. Seeing this "shining wall" from the camp ground below lured me into taking a closer look. Soon after the route was born, traveling up through a shiny section on terrific rock. As a bit of trivia, the reason the lower bolts initially trend to the right and then jog back left was to avoid a huge loose flake. It hung there precariously and I didn't want anyone to go near it. The obvious line was to go straight over it, but safer judgment overruled temptation. Later that summer (or perhaps the next spring) I foisted a crowbar up and pried it off with very little persuasion, the remnants of which are buried in the dirt below and down the hillside. The route name comes from watching a pair of climbers ascending the line from the campground below one late afternoon. As the solitary lead climber gracefully made their way up that empty but shiny wall, the name Face Dancer seemed very fitting.

Joe Desimone - Spring 2008 May 21, 2008