Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Joe Desimone
Page Views: 4,218 total · 27/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 31, 2006
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

56 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This fun line pulls pockets and edges with a crux between the second and third bolt, with continuous slightly easier climbing above. A small bulge guards the chains.


Face Dancer is located 7 bolted lines to the left of the Fallen Idol Pillar. It is the second line up a small pedestal / ramp on the left side of the Fallen Idol face. A newer "Unknown" route (10+) starts immediately right of Face Dancer, while Wicker Man (11a) is right of this.


7 bolts to anchors.


Joe Desimone
Ward, Colorado
Joe Desimone   Ward, Colorado
Not to take away from Brett Ruckman's prolific accomplishments, but for the record, he is not one who established and FA'd this route. I bolted it in the summer of 1994 with Mitsuru Kitagawa and Bruno Lanson. At the time there were no other routes on this wall. Totally empty. I was inspired to bolt it because the rock on this portion of the cliff is somewhat polished in places and it shines quite brightly when the sunlight strikes it at certain times in the day. Seeing this "shining wall" from the camp ground below lured me into taking a closer look. Soon after the route was born, traveling up through a shiny section on terrific rock. As a bit of trivia, the reason the lower bolts initially trend to the right and then jog back left was to avoid a huge loose flake. It hung there precariously and I didn't want anyone to go near it. The obvious line was to go straight over it, but safer judgment overruled temptation. Later that summer (or perhaps the next spring) I foisted a crowbar up and pried it off with very little persuasion, the remnants of which are buried in the dirt below and down the hillside. The route name comes from watching a pair of climbers ascending the line from the campground below one late afternoon. As the solitary lead climber gracefully made their way up that empty but shiny wall, the name Face Dancer seemed very fitting.

Joe Desimone - Spring 2008 May 21, 2008
Kyle vH
Kyle vH  
Thanks for putting up this route, Joe.
It's one of my all-time favorites. I was lucky enough to onsight it, and when I think of limestone climbing, I think of this route. Jan 13, 2010
Charlie Jonas
Jackson, Wyoming
Charlie Jonas   Jackson, Wyoming
Definitely didn't feel like an 11a to me (at least compared to other 11a's in the area). I felt it was solid 11 and 10+ climbing for almost the whole route. There's a lot going on so maybe I just read it wrong. Or maybe it just wasn't my style...

Either way, great climb. Nov 10, 2014
The Morse-Bradys
Lander, WY
The Morse-Bradys   Lander, WY
Hardware update at some point. It originally had angle iron hangers from my understanding. Dec 5, 2018