Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Matt Lund
Page Views: 1,895 total · 12/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Sep 23, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Description

Smoke Shapes is an outstanding line of small pockets requiring strong fingers and technical precision. This is one of the better pocket-pulling test-pieces around, though it suffers from runoff and may require a thorough brushing prior to climbing. The tufa flowstone found here is some of the best in Lander, once its been cleaned. Expect 4-6 monos, depending on your sequence! Though certainly a power route, a good bit of endurance is needed to make it through the redpoint crux at the fourth bolt.

Stick clip at least the first bolt, then begin ~10 feet right on a sloping ramp that may host a small tower of cheater stones. A PDH jump start gets you in the mood for an unrelenting left-ward traverse along a fortuitous horizontal band of small pockets. Fancy footwork and extreme crosses lead to a precarious stance a bit left of the first bolt. Make a desperate move up to the obvious flake, where the route character shifts from burly to technical. Cerebral climbing and a set of obvious monos lead up the clean wall to a make or break move to reach the fourth bolt. With the send in the bag, cruise the entertaining headwall to the anchor.

Protection

7 bolts plus a directional ring-bolt in the back of the cave. 2 BA. Stick clip mandatory.

Location

Furthest right route in the Moss Cave, climbing a smokey smooth gray streak

Photos