Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Todd Skinner
Page Views: 1,227 total · 10/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Sep 23, 2008
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Description

Smoke Shapes is an outstanding line of small pockets requiring strong fingers and technical precision. This is one of the better pocket-pulling test-pieces around, though it suffers from runoff and may require a thorough brushing prior to climbing. The tufa flowstone found here is some of the best in Lander, once its been cleaned. Expect 4-6 monos, depending on your sequence! Though certainly a power route, a good bit of endurance is needed to make it through the redpoint crux at the fourth bolt.

Stick clip at least the first bolt, then begin ~10 feet right on a sloping ramp that may host a small tower of cheater stones. A PDH jump start gets you in the mood for an unrelenting left-ward traverse along a fortuitous horizontal band of small pockets. Fancy footwork and extreme crosses lead to a precarious stance a bit left of the first bolt. Make a desperate move up to the obvious flake, where the route character shifts from burly to technical. Cerebral climbing and a set of obvious monos lead up the clean wall to a make or break move to reach the fourth bolt. With the send in the bag, cruise the entertaining headwall to the anchor.

Protection

7 bolts plus a directional ring-bolt in the back of the cave. 2 BA. Stick clip mandatory.

Location

Furthest right route in the Moss Cave, climbing a smokey smooth gray streak

Photos

Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
Matt Lund has the FA on this, not Todd Skinner. May 30, 2014
2017 Hardware update 6 days ago