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Routes in Fallen Idol /Face Dancer + Wave/Moss Cave

Billie Idol (aka "Fallen Idol" p.2) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blessed Saint Yabo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Calling Saint Fiacre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Confessions of a Mask S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Diemos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eros S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Face Dancer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fallen Idol S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fallen Idol (Pt I), The S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Good Luck Mr. Gorsky S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Kamiakin S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
MaskaBait S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
No More Heroes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poagie Bait S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Smoke Shapes S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Travelling Menagerie, The S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Winds of War S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Todd Skinner
Page Views: 1,148 total, 10/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Sep 23, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Smoke Shapes is an outstanding line of small pockets requiring strong fingers and technical precision. This is one of the better pocket-pulling test-pieces around, though it suffers from runoff and may require a thorough brushing prior to climbing. The tufa flowstone found here is some of the best in Lander, once its been cleaned. Expect 4-6 monos, depending on your sequence! Though certainly a power route, a good bit of endurance is needed to make it through the redpoint crux at the fourth bolt.

Stick clip at least the first bolt, then begin ~10 feet right on a sloping ramp that may host a small tower of cheater stones. A PDH jump start gets you in the mood for an unrelenting left-ward traverse along a fortuitous horizontal band of small pockets. Fancy footwork and extreme crosses lead to a precarious stance a bit left of the first bolt. Make a desperate move up to the obvious flake, where the route character shifts from burly to technical. Cerebral climbing and a set of obvious monos lead up the clean wall to a make or break move to reach the fourth bolt. With the send in the bag, cruise the entertaining headwall to the anchor.

Protection

7 bolts plus a directional ring-bolt in the back of the cave. 2 BA. Stick clip mandatory.

Location

Furthest right route in the Moss Cave, climbing a smokey smooth gray streak
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
Matt Lund has the FA on this, not Todd Skinner. May 30, 2014