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Routes in Fallen Idol /Face Dancer + Wave/Moss Cave

Billie Idol (aka "Fallen Idol" p.2) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blessed Saint Yabo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Calling Saint Fiacre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Confessions of a Mask S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Diemos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eros S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Face Dancer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fallen Idol S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fallen Idol (Pt I), The S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Good Luck Mr. Gorsky S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Kamiakin S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
MaskaBait S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
No More Heroes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poagie Bait S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Smoke Shapes S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Travelling Menagerie, The S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Winds of War S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Paul Piana
Page Views: 845 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tom Rangitsch on Jun 12, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Start off a cheater stack with a big hueco and an undercling. The first few moves are a little awkward as you start with your hands reversed and have to do several crossing moves to get the correct sequence. Expect long pulls on really good pockets. It is mostly positive two and three finger pockets through the steep section. The crux is a dead point to a four finger right hand jug off a deep two finger for the right hand and a crimp side pull for the left after the 5th bolt. The angle eases up after the 7th bolt. There is a 12a redpoint crux off a left mono between bolts 9 and 10. Very sustained until the headwall, although the holds get smaller as the angle gets more towards vertical. Sequential and power endurance the whole way. Sometimes this route can be a bit wet, especially the first 2-3 bolts.

Location

Second route from the left in the Moss Cave.

Protection

11 bolts and a two bolt anchor. Usually has fixed draws.

Photos

Blake Cash
Chattanooga, TN
Blake Cash   Chattanooga, TN
Now starts from the ground (or rather from a small rock stack). An obvious jug pocket leads into a few 2 finger pockets that take you to the spot where people originally A0'd to. Mar 16, 2016