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Routes in Fallen Idol /Face Dancer + Wave/Moss Cave

Billie Idol (aka "Fallen Idol" p.2) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blessed Saint Yabo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Calling Saint Fiacre S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Confessions of a Mask S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Diemos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eros S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Face Dancer S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fallen Idol S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fallen Idol (Pt I), The S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Good Luck Mr. Gorsky S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Kamiakin S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
MaskaBait S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
No More Heroes S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poagie Bait S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Smoke Shapes S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Travelling Menagerie, The S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Winds of War S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Todd Skinner
Page Views: 82 total, 1/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 22, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Dear Lord! What did Yablonski do to deserve this homage? The climbing on this line is actually quite fun if you can disregard the omnipresent silt and sketchy anchor. Unfortunately this is hard to do since the dirt coats virtually every hold. However, if you're looking for athletic reaches between great pockets on a steep-for-the-grade wall, whip out that toothbrush and get to work.

Stick clip the first bolt and teeter up the precarious flakes to a good but dirty sidepull. Make a big move for the obvious diagonal crack, then move left for a few feet to a good jug. Excellent pockets lead onto the slab and a few random holds that don't require cleaning. Cruise the ever-interesting slab to reach the big ramp. A few easy moves on spooky rock lead to the one-bolt-placed-in-a-detached-flake-anchor. At this point, if you brought a bunch of extra draws, head right or far left to finish up one of the neighboring lines. Otherwise down-climb to the lip of the ramp, then move easily left to the Stone Seed anchor, careful to avoid a grating pendulum fall.

Location

This is the third bolted line left of Face Dancer, or the third route right of the right side of the Moss Cave. It begins from a stack of flakes that protrude from the ground.

Protection

~6 bolts to 1-bolt anchor in loose rock that suffers from extensive seepage.

Photos

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