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Routes in Rode Hard Wall

Arizona Cowgirl S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Belle Star S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Buckskin Billy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Copenhagen Angel S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cowboy Joe S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Easy Ridin' S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Circle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Nine Horse Johnson S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Phony Express S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rode Hard and Put Up Wet S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tomahawk Slam S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wind and Rattlesnakes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Windy West S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Amy Whisler
Page Views: 10,117 total, 74/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 21, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


120 Opinions

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Description

Sweet movement. Pretty and continuous. Start with a few easier pulls heading up and right into the bulging start. Don't think its over too soon. Keep on it!

Location

Wind and Rattlesnakes is the first line to the right of the vertical face to BIG roof (Rode Hard 12c and others). It climbs easily up into a corner before heading right across the bulging face.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts to anchors.
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
Maybe I'll be the only blasphemous one to say it, but this thing is way hard for 12a. Nov 21, 2017
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Felt harder than Ruby Shooter and Court & Spark... Jul 5, 2016
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
Hi Guys.
The Bolt and Anchor Replacement Fund, which is part of the Central Wyoming Climbers Alliance (handles access, rebolting, youth climbing programs, and of course the International Climbers Festival) is the rebolting agent here. We use a host of bolts, most of them glue ins.

In this case we did not use Titanium, though it does look that way. These bolts are thinner and harder to see than the fat Fixe bolts, but they are actually stronger. They are made of 6mm 316 SS and have a 40 kilonewton, about 9000 pounds, strength ratting. Thats almost twice your average light weight carabiner. The bolts are made by Jim Titt in Germany. You will also see Fixe glue ins and Wave bolts from Climbtech, but also the occasional 1/2 inch SS powers five piece.

For what it is worth, we do need financial help with this. Give to the BARF program if you can. Each route costs about $100 to replace with this gear. We had one of the bolts on Wind and Rattlesnakes break while it was being removed, to give you some idea of the corrosion level. We hope to have the entire area done in another three years, funding provided.

Have fun. See you at the crag.
Sam Jun 12, 2015
poundit14
Laramie, WY
  5.12a
poundit14   Laramie, WY
  5.12a
The really thin glue-in bolt that you are asking about is titanium. Sam Lightner has been rebolting routes in Lander, and he has been using glue-ins. Some of the first routes he rebolted, he used titanium bolts left over from his days in Thailand. Jun 19, 2014
dnoB ekiM
  5.12a
dnoB ekiM  
  5.12a
Great Route! Appears to be recently rebolted with glue-ins. Anyone know what type of bolt the second glue-in is? Really thin in comparison to the others. I'm not saying anything is wrong with that bolt; I'm just interested in what it is. Saw a similar one on another route or two at Wild Iris (first bolt of Limestone Cowboy). Jun 17, 2014
djkyote  
first 12. one of a kind. Sep 12, 2009
jbak
 
jbak  
 
You guys are easy with the stars. I'm pushing to give it 3. It's a good route though. 65 feet !? I'll bet it's 50 max. Aug 15, 2008
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.12a
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.12a
I loved this route. It's surprisingly pumpy pulling through those final pockets on the final headwall! Sep 27, 2006