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Devil's Kitchen Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Devil's Kitchen

Apocalypse Left 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Apocalypse Wall 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Reaper Wall 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16

Underworld 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

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Elevation:	7,821 ft	2,384 m
GPS:	42.845, -108.98879 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	490 total · 31/month
Shared By:	Justin Loyka on Nov 4, 2024 · Updates
Admins:	Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Tribal Trespass or Fishing Permit required for access! Details

The road to Devil's Kitchen crosses the Wind River Indian Reservation before heading into the national forest. This road is typically open from June 1st - September 30th each year for non-tribal folks. In order to use this road you must purchase a Dickinson Park Trespass permit ($25) or Tribal Fishing Permit (more expensive) day, week, or annual pass. These are available for purchase at the WY Game and Fish in Lander, Tribal Game and Fish, Hines General Store and other locations in Lander. Please purchase your permit before coming to the Kitchen, if you don't you are selfishly endangering access to the road for all and the fines can be steep! If the cost is too high, there are thousands of other routes nearby that do not require a permit.

Description

Devil's Kitchen is an area of granite walls and tumbled boulders located in the canyon of the North Fork of the Popo Agie river. The centerpiece feature of the area is a massive granite nunatack that leans north, forming large sunny slabs on the south and short, steep walls ideal for sport climbing on the north side. While there are several limestone walls visible in the canyon, I've always considered the extents of the area to be the boulder fields and the granite walls above, with Lost Cabin Wall and others as separate zones. The area is gorgeous and secluded in the foothills of the Winds, but complex terrain and thick brush make it hard to move around. A small wildfire swept through the area in September 2021, leaving lots of spalling rock behind, luckily the best walls and boulders were all spared. Mountain lions, moose, black bears, rattlesnakes and wolves have all been spotted in the area so use caution and carry bear spray. You're unlikely to encounter other climbers in Devil's Kitchen, at least as of 2024.

In addition to the sport climbing, extensive bouldering has been developed in the area, hopefully someone with more knowledge can update this page in the future.

Getting There

To approach from Lander, head north out of town towards Dubois. Turn left onto Trout Creek Road at the trading post on the southern edge of Ft. Washakie and follow it until it turns to gravel (about 25 min from Lander). Note: Please purchase your seasonal Dickinson park trespass permit from WGFD for $25. Follow this improved road (Moccasin Lake Rd) up seemingly endless switchbacks to a few miles of gentler grade, followed by another long section of switchbacks (approx. 1 hr from Lander). About a mile past the top of the last switchback you will come to a fork in the road, take the left fork. Follow this road south towards the North Fork Canyon, it slowly deteriorates from an improved dirt road, to a two track, to a steep 4x4 track. The lowest parking (1 hr. 20 min. from Lander) is a 20-minute hike from the sport climbs, but parking above the worst part of the road (last half mile) only adds 10-minutes of walking.

A cairned trail heads south from the parking lot, through the burn, and across some pretty slabs to sand creek. A downed log bridge helps you cross when the water is high. Turn east towards the boulders and follow cairns to the first wall (Apocalypse), about 5 min after crossing the creek. Total hiking time 20 minutes.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Kitchen

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 6 ● Devil's Advocate Sport Apocalypse Wall
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 8 ● Dust and Toil Sport Reaper Wall
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 6 ● Emergent Complexity Sport Reaper Wall
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 7 ● The Bleeding Place Sport Reaper Wall
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 7 ● Reap What You Sow Sport Reaper Wall