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Routes in Zorro Area

Chapito S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chico S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cirque du Sauve S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ewenanimity S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gaucho S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Guns I'll Never Own, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hangman, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Huggys Pull-up S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Sport S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Poposer Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wet Wipe aWhet S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zorro S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Jacob Valdez 1990
Page Views: 5,828 total, 42/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jul 13, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

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121 Opinions

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Description

This is one of the best 5.11 routes at Wild Iris. There are no moves harder than 5.11a/b, but the route is very continuous. Zorro follows a black streak to the left of Gaucho 5.10d. The route climbs between well spaced pockets that get larger as you climb. The route ends with a fun crack system to a 3 bolt anchor. Some of the moves may be height dependent.

The first clip is difficult to clip from the left. I always climb up from the right clip it, and then down climb to start the route.

Location

Follows the black streak in the center of the main wall

Protection

9 bolts
kalockwood
SLC, UT
  5.11a
kalockwood   SLC, UT
  5.11a
There is no way this is 5.11d. Gaucho is probably harder. I would say 5.11a is a fair grade, 5.11b if you're short. Jul 24, 2016
lech
  5.11a
lech  
  5.11a
We did this thinking it was Gaucho. We all thought it was a bit hard for a 5.10 and concluded it should be 11a. This is a great line but I found the climb to the left of this to be even better. Jul 4, 2016
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
  5.11c
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
  5.11c
This is an amazing climb. Sep 13, 2015
Eric K
Washington
 
Eric K   Washington
 
Super fun climb, I did not expect to finish but I just kept climbing and eventually made it to the top. All the moves make sense and rests are more than good enough. Mar 19, 2015
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
My first 11d lead. Reachy/techy start then steep but surprisingly big holds through middle section to tricky finger crack finish above upper bulge. Agree that no one move seems 11+, but quite sustained 10+/11-. A must do. Aug 16, 2014
Nicholas Yaskoff
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11
Nicholas Yaskoff   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11
Don't let the rating of this route intimidate you; it is quite soft for the grade. I found a number of rests on the route that allowed me to shake out and keep the pump at bay. I'd say if you can climb Gaucho then you'll be able to get to the top of Zorro. The chains are in an awkward spot, however, I think it adds to the excitement of the route. A beautiful line on an aesthetic wall with an incredible view; it doesn't get much better. Jul 7, 2014
irujo
  5.11d
irujo  
  5.11d
agreed, 80 feet of in your face 11a right to the chains Jul 14, 2013
Awesome climb. Like the description says, no moves are much harder than 11a/b, but they just keep coming one after another. Well placed bolts, too. I'd definitely give this one a repeat when I'm back. Sep 8, 2012
ferrells  
 
one of the best 11's ive ever done. cant wait to make it back to wild iris and look for more routes like it. Mar 12, 2009
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
A total classic. It's all there but it just goes on and on and..... Aug 20, 2008
Jesse Ryan
  5.11d
Jesse Ryan  
  5.11d
Great line -- 11 enduro climbing Sep 19, 2006