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Routes in Trail of Tears Wall

Bare-Fisted Grizzly Killer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Chiefed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Indian Outlaw S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Paha Sapa aka "Chockstoned" S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peace Pipe S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PipeStoned S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tomahawk, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Totem pole S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trail of Tears S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Pete DeLannoy
Page Views: 1,091 total, 13/month
Shared By: BBQ on Oct 23, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Get ready to have your tendons chopped to pieces. A beyond-boldery start leads to pleasant climbing that soon has you clinging on for dear life for the finishing moves. Classic canyon climbing and a must do for anyone looking to get in over their head.

Location

Located to the left of the infamous Trail of Tears and to the right of Bear Fisted Grizzly Killer.

Protection

Bring about ten quickdraws. Stick clipping the first two is recommended since the opening sequence is harder than you could possibly imagine. HINT! Look for hidden two finger pockets once you run out of jugs at the very beginning.
Franck Vee
  5.11a/b PG13
Franck Vee  
  5.11a/b PG13
I agree that the opening sequence is probably something around 11+/V4 type of move. The moves themselves I don't think are super hard, but finding good beta for feet is tricky once you have reached the first jug right.

I agree with the 11a rating for the rest of the route (roughly once you clip the 2nd). I don't think it should be rated 11d or c even considering the opening moves. Perhaps 11b if you want to somewhat consider it. I gave it a/b because of that.

I think PG13 is warranted here - you don't want to fall at the 4th. Actually it seems to me that you need an attentive belayer and be somewhat solid at 10+/11- between the 3rd & 5th bolts - you could take a nasty fall depending on position, slack, belayer reaction etc... with that corner below. It's not that the moves are so tough (I think the moves themselves are 10+ but very sustained so pushing it at 11a as a whole), but you need to keep your head cool with the pump and not do anything stupid. No one will die there but wear a helmet and watch those ankles if you do fall there.

The route is amazing, nice series of 2-3 finger pockets. Well done. Jul 23, 2017
Jesse Ryan
  5.11d
Jesse Ryan  
  5.11d
If you rate routes based on hardest moves it clocks in around modern 5.11d for one move (V4?), if you discount the boulder start, yes maybe 5.11b after that intro. Very interesting fun climbing either way! Nov 18, 2015
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
 
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
 
I have to say, I love reading your posts Brent. Keep it up! Oct 23, 2010