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Routes in Slavery Wall

Aunt Jemimas Bisquick Thunderdome S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Burden of Immortality, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Calm Like A Bomb S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Colors of Heaven S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crown Prince Abdullah S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
EKV: Exo-atmospheric Kill Vehicle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Goldmember S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Happiness in Slavery S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Head Like a Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart, Balls and Swagger S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Jack- A-Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jackabite S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kablamo! S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mommas Mental Medication S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Number One Enemy (AKA: Popsicle Sandwich) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Papa Knows Best S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
School's Out S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Screaming Night Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shake Your Money Maker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strut Your Funky Stuff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Superfly S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wagon Wheel of Death S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Mike Snyder
Page Views: 6,098 total, 47/month
Shared By: Bill Ballace on May 3, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


73 Opinions

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Description

Out of the 9 or 10 routes at the right side of this cliff this is the third route from the left. Between Papa Knows Best .12d and Calm Like A Bomb .12c/d. It begins on a rounded arete.

Move up a mix of positive small and large pockets ascending the prow. A harder move leads into jug hauling up to the 8th bolt. A long reach attains the two finger pocket ladder. Hang on and keep moving cause it gets steep! Turn the lip and solve the techy, crimpy section to reach the anchor. A crag favorite!

Protection

11 bolts, sport anchor

Photos

Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
My favorite route at tensleep. This thing is unbelievably good! Get er done.... Jun 20, 2013
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
  5.12c
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
  5.12c
Bills description was correct for 2007. As of 2010, EKV is between Papa Knows Best and Calm Like a Bomb, and including Crown Prince Abdullah, it is 3 routes left of Happiness.
Also if memory serves there are 11 bolts and a sport anchor.
Cheers! Sep 24, 2012
Riofrio
  5.12c
Riofrio  
  5.12c
Phenomenal! Significantly better than Happiness in my opinion. Also easier to redpoint than Happiness considering the abundance of good rests. Aug 16, 2012
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
 
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
 
The holds on this climb are SOOO fun. overhanging and positive till three bolts from the top, a several move crux involving a kewl undercling to crimps and 2fers, and then incuts for two more bolts to the chains. Awesome awesome endurance route. Sep 19, 2007
Jesse Ryan
  5.12c
Jesse Ryan  
  5.12c
EKV starts with nice climbing along a 'slabby' prow. The angle kicks back on jugs. Fairly easy (but pumpy) climbing leads to the powerful and technical crux. Even after the hardest moves, EKV stays out you for a couple of bolts. Superb! Aug 3, 2007