Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Mike Snyder
Page Views: 6,905 total · 49/month
Shared By: Bill Ballace on May 3, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


72 Opinions

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Description

Out of the 9 or 10 routes at the right side of this cliff this is the third route from the left. Between Papa Knows Best .12d and Calm Like A Bomb .12c/d. It begins on a rounded arete.

Move up a mix of positive small and large pockets ascending the prow. A harder move leads into jug hauling up to the 8th bolt. A long reach attains the two finger pocket ladder. Hang on and keep moving cause it gets steep! Turn the lip and solve the techy, crimpy section to reach the anchor. A crag favorite!

Protection

11 bolts, sport anchor

Photos

Jesse Ryan
  5.12c
Jesse Ryan  
  5.12c
EKV starts with nice climbing along a 'slabby' prow. The angle kicks back on jugs. Fairly easy (but pumpy) climbing leads to the powerful and technical crux. Even after the hardest moves, EKV stays out you for a couple of bolts. Superb! Aug 3, 2007
Joshua Merriam
Boulder, CO
 
Joshua Merriam   Boulder, CO
 
The holds on this climb are SOOO fun. overhanging and positive till three bolts from the top, a several move crux involving a kewl undercling to crimps and 2fers, and then incuts for two more bolts to the chains. Awesome awesome endurance route. Sep 19, 2007
Riofrio
  5.12c
Riofrio  
  5.12c
Phenomenal! Significantly better than Happiness in my opinion. Also easier to redpoint than Happiness considering the abundance of good rests. Aug 16, 2012
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
  5.12c
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
  5.12c
Bills description was correct for 2007. As of 2010, EKV is between Papa Knows Best and Calm Like a Bomb, and including Crown Prince Abdullah, it is 3 routes left of Happiness.
Also if memory serves there are 11 bolts and a sport anchor.
Cheers! Sep 24, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
My favorite route at tensleep. This thing is unbelievably good! Get er done.... Jun 20, 2013