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Areas in Horsetooth Reservoir

Duncan's Ridge 18 / 2 / 22 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 30
Dungeon, The 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Land of the Overhangs, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Marina Ridge 12 / 0 / 15 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
North Horsetooth Ridge 1 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
North Quarry 1 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Party Cove 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Piano Ridge 0 / 0 / 0 / 31 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 31
Rotary Park 4 / 0 / 7 / 111 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 112
Scoop Area, The 1 / 0 / 1 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Torture Chamber 9 / 1 / 15 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Tropics 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Elevation: 5,437 ft
GPS: 40.578, -105.164 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 218,658 total, 1,140/month
Shared By: Joe McManus on Mar 15, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

Horsetooth Reservoir is characterized by mostly bouldering, but there is top rope and trad too, and they have recently had anchors put in at the top for lowering. It is sunny all year. In the summer, it is so damn sunny it'll kill you. The rock is pretty clean, since it has been climbed for years...plus who doesn't like Ft. Fun. I believe Rock & Ice called Horsetooth one of the ten best places to boulder in the world.

Currently, there is no camping at Rotary Park and there is a $6 fee for the day use parking lot. 45 minute parking on the dirt pull off is allowed. Also, at the 420s, a Colorado Habitat Stamp is currently required for all people heading back to the boulders and they must have it with them. It can be purchased for around $10 (instead of a $70 ticket).

You have to stop at Yong's Korean Cuisine 1232 W. Elizabeth St. (970) 482-4885 for grub, cheap and awesome.

The Southeast Reservoir access has been clearly marked as private land for 25 years.

Getting There

From the town of Ft. Collins, head towards the mountains on W. Horsetooth Rd. Go left on South Taft Hill. Go right on 38. Take that up into the reservoir. At the first intersection, bouldering is on the right. Or go right, when you get over the bridge park and walk uphill to get to Duncans Ridge. Walk uphill about 5 minutes and then descend via the obvious 4th class descent. A map of the park can be seen at:

co.larimer.co.us/parks/hors….

Mountain Lion Alert

Note, mountain lions have been seen in the area. Pay attention to small children and pets while out and about.

Closed areas

Per Chris N: from the Larimer County website: "due to Homeland Security restrictions, no recreation activity is allowed on dams or within 100 feet of dams when on land."

252 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Horsetooth Reservoir

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0- 4-
Curving Crack
Boulder
V0+ 4+
Penny Lunge
Boulder
V1- 5- X
Bolt Wall
TR, Boulder
V2 5+
My Two Cents
Boulder
V2+ 5+
Beached Whale
Boulder
V3 6A
Finger Ripper
Boulder
V3 6A R
The Nipple Wall
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
Penny Pincher
Boulder
V4- 6B
Right Eliminator
Boulder
V4 6B
Right Eliminator Prow
Boulder
V4 6B
Mental Standard
Boulder
V5 6C
Punk Rock Traverse
Boulder
V5 6C
Pinch Overhang
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corner Climb
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roof Route
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Curving Crack Rotary Park > Central Ridgeline, including Shi… V0- 4- Boulder
Penny Lunge Rotary Park > Pitch Penny Boulder V0+ 4+ Boulder
Bolt Wall Rotary Park > S Ridgeline, including Cat's Eye… V1- 5- X TR, Boulder
My Two Cents Rotary Park > Pitch Penny Boulder V2 5+ Boulder
Beached Whale Rotary Park > Eliminator Boulder V2+ 5+ Boulder
Finger Ripper Rotary Park > Central Ridgeline, including Shi… V3 6A Boulder
The Nipple Wall Rotary Park > Nipple Wall V3 6A R Boulder
Penny Pincher Rotary Park > Pitch Penny Boulder V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Right Eliminator Rotary Park > Eliminator Boulder V4- 6B Boulder
Right Eliminator Prow Rotary Park > Eliminator Boulder V4 6B Boulder
Mental Standard Rotary Park > Mental Block V4 6B Boulder
Punk Rock Traverse Rotary Park > Punk Rock V5 6C Boulder
Pinch Overhang Rotary Park > Mental Block V5 6C Boulder
Corner Climb Duncan's Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Roof Route Duncan's Ridge 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Horsetooth Reservoir »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Chris N
Loveland, Co
Chris N   Loveland, Co
From the Larimer County website, "Due to Homeland Security restrictions, no recreation activity is allowed on dams or within 100 feet of dams when on land." Aug 31, 2015
Hello!

I need some info about accessibility getting to Duncan's asap. I am going with a group of climbers and have one climber who uses a wheelchair full-time, so I need to know how steep/intense the approach is as we will be piggybacking him in. Any info would be greatly appreciated! Jul 13, 2015
Brett Billings
Fort Collins, CO
Brett Billings   Fort Collins, CO
I love winter bouldering at Horsetooth Reservoir. It's always accessible, and generally if it's sunny the temperature isn't an issue. Oct 29, 2013
H Poet  
Is Horsetooth Reservoir a good location for Winter (Jan.-Feb.) bouldering in Ft. Collins? I will be out there for a few weekends in the winter, and I am trying to determine what I can hit up and what will be snowed over or inaccessible. Oct 22, 2013
I don't see any note of the small crag near the Torture Chamber here. Its the one just across the gully from the bottom of the Torture Chamber at the base of the dam. There is a large iron power pole on top of the crag. The coords are(40.531242, -105.136497). I have heard it called "The Dungeon". There are about half a dozen easy to moderate topropeable routes here. Fun climbs and great for learners, this is where the CSU outdoor program took me for an anchor clinic. Does anyone else know this area, It would be good to get it up here but I don't know enough to put up a new page by myself.

Jul 17, 2012
Rayna
Arvada, CO
Rayna   Arvada, CO
For anyone else looking for information on the habitat stamp, this website (Northern Colorado Climbing Coalition) says you don't need one anymore....

nococlimbing.org/news/habit… Dec 30, 2011
JOhn CAmeron
DENVER!!!
JOhn CAmeron   DENVER!!!
Yo- I seem to have lost my wallet. I was climbing at the topropes west of the Piano Boulders up at Horsetooth 2 days ago. If you find it, please give me an email.

Thanks,
Cameron

jcaberglund@gmail.com Sep 1, 2010
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
What exactly does "Southeast Reservoir is closed" mean? Where is Southeast Reservoir? Apr 27, 2010
Ricky Newman
Fort Collins, CO
Ricky Newman   Fort Collins, CO
Lately, someone has decided to garden the landing of Mental Block, removing two large stones that are crucial in preventing further erosion of the landing area. I have spent several minutes moving these rocks back into place with my friends on several occasions but, when I return they are simply moved again. With the increased amount of young climbers entering the sport (myself included) I figured we all should realize that removing rocks from the landings of other people's problems (especially classics like Mental Block) is not only disrespectful to every other climber but is also leaving an impact. To those who moved the rocks at Mental Block; if you are worried about the landing, take the 15 minutes you would need to clear the rocks and set up a top rope! Sep 19, 2007
Brandon johnson
Highlands Ranch, CO
Brandon johnson   Highlands Ranch, CO
Looks like a large variety of climbs in and around the area. Hope to visit up there in the near future. Apr 7, 2006
BZD
BZD  
AC- I didn't an item, I found a climb. It starts really low on a small edge. Then you go to a side pull, then to another side pull and out to a sloper, and that as far as I could get, but it looks like there's some finising moves, but I'm not strong enough to do it yet. Sorry about the confusion. Peace out. Apr 30, 2005
ac
ac  
BZD ... unless it's a wallet or a very expensive camera, why don't you just leave it there. Picking up someone's stuff they accidentally left behind is not cool. You know, most people come back for things that they leave behind (sunglasses/chalkbag/shoes/keys/etc.)

Just cause someone forgets something does not make it booty. A post on cb.com that ends up in the side comments for Horsetooth is unlikely to be read by more than a handful of us who regularly read the recent comments. cb.com is purportedly perused by 3% or less of front range climbers. I suspect it's much less.

I'm aware the law is on your side in this matter, but do a better job of alerting the person who lost whatever it is if you are going to bother to pick it up and take it home. Post signs at Horsetooth and Fort Collins gyms giving the time and date of your booty grab if you are going to pick it up and take it home.

Bad karma dude. Apr 28, 2005
BZD
BZD  
I was climbing around on mental block yesterday and i found something on the back. does anybody know what i'm talking about? if so what is it. Apr 27, 2005
Actually, Piano Ridge is CLOSED !!. It's part of an Open Space area (open for what I don't know but it's closed to all "off-trail" use including climbing. Oct 16, 2004
Jeremy Monahan
Fort Fun, CO
Jeremy Monahan   Fort Fun, CO
Yeah, 6 bucks to get into the park (rotary park) each time is ridiculous. They want you to pay $65 for a year pass! It is not even a state park! There is so much better climbing at Horsetooth, and best of all, it's FREE!!!! (i.e. torture chamber, piano ridge, duncan's ridge) Oct 16, 2004
Ben
Ben  
I heard that there are some plans for the city of Fort Collins to enact a fee to climb at rotary park. I guess our tax money isn't good enough for those who see an opportunity to make a profit. Fight the man. Mar 7, 2004
RE HORAN BOOK SUCKING

Guys,

The modern guide is quite nice. Very complete description of the rock and problems that people have established. Bouldering on rock with a road map to problems other people have established, complete with grades and beta, isn't exactly adventure. Its about just wanting to send the hardest problem and know exactly how hard it was so that one can relate this conquest to others.

Some people prefer to approach the rock without knowing such specific things. Without an overly specific guide, they are free to create their own lines. This provides extreme challenges to the faith and epxressive powers of the boulderer. Establishing a hard boulder problem on improbable and unknown rock is a very challenging endeavor, physically emotionally and mentally.

These guides represent two completely different mindsets towards bouldering. They both suck in the eyes of people from the other mindset. The lone zen boulder apostle will despise the modern guide and the punk v10-er will hate the old guide that wastes afternoons will little accumulation of vermin pointage.

I used to boulder at horsetooth, before the modern guide provided the epxlicit list of problems. We, the guys and gals I bouldered with while I lived there, had our own set of problems that we forged, partly our own creations where we thought none had previously been, and partly trying to repeat lines we had only hear vague descriptions of, mysterious echoes from the past. One of the raddest things was meeting someone who had bouldered there long before and having them give you a tour to "their" horsetooth. Inevitably they would show you a whole different set of problems on the exact same stone as you and your buddies had established your own. I'm afraid that the presence of an explicit guidebook listing is only a sample of one generations lines. And, worse, it makes it very difficult for new climbers to approach the stone, thinking they are the first, with a sense of creativity and adventure. This is a bummer.

I hope I see some of you out at horsetooth some day and you'll show me some new problems.

Live long and find some stone of your own, Chad. Dec 6, 2003
Krister Sorensen
Centennial, CO
Krister Sorensen   Centennial, CO
Does anyone know anything about Aurther's Rock? I can't find beta for it anywhere. Nov 15, 2003
I heard that the dam to get to Rotary will not open til December. I hope this is not true and I'm not sure. Sep 9, 2003
What I've heard about the dam's being opening is that they are going to re-open in August of 2003. Until they open it you can either park on the street by the parking lot for Hughs Stadium and walk through the field and up... or park in the neighborhood just northwest of Prospect and Overland Trail and follow a trail up the hill that way. Jul 27, 2003
Yes the tropics are gone. I miss them too, especially for the endurance sessions. If we are ever allowed to climb in the area again it looks like all that is left is a ridge of blasted slabs. I don't think that the 'powerhouse rock' has been touched. Feb 24, 2003
I'm a former Fort Fun resident. Is it true that the Tropics have been demolished? If this is true, I'm majorly bummed. I spent a number of happy afternoons there in grad school. Feb 22, 2003
As the A.C. noted there is a long term contruction project on all of Horsetooth's dams. Detailed comments on two ways to hike to Rotary are mentioned by Alan and Adam's comments in the Rotary's area description. You can still drive up between the Spring Canyon and Dixon dams and park at the road just above the N end of Spring Canyon dam to access Piano Boulder and Duncan's Ridge - just be very aware of the fenced off construction area. The Torture Chamber Ridge is closed. Oct 7, 2002
Due to reconstruction of the dams on the resevoir, traditional access to horsetooth has been closed off for an undertermined amount of time. Tried to go up there a month ago and couldnt access the boulders. Anybody know of alternate access to the good areas while this construction is underway? Oct 7, 2002
Yes I would have to agree with Adam. That guide book is really bad. The on I would get is the Colorado Bouldering book, that thing is great for horsetooth. Sep 21, 2002
This site suggests Bob Horan's bouldering guidebook. It sucks! Get Phillip Benningfield Colorado Bouldering guide instead. Or there was a cover story on Horsetooth in Climbing magazine in the late 90s (cover photo is someone on Pinch Overhang). It has a mini-guide in it. Apr 1, 2002

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