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Routes in Nipple Wall

Nipple Arete V0- 4-
Nipple Face V-easy 3
Nipple Wall Left V5 6C PG13
Nipple Wall Right V1- 5- R
Nipple Wall, The V3 6A R
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown (Steve Bass ?)
Page Views: 3,778 total, 20/month
Shared By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Apr 13, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

Just south of the North Slabs sits a right-facing dihedral with a tall, broad, clean wall on its right. (It's the second corner S of North Slab, I think.) A fantastic balance line climbs past a few good crimps at the start, pinches a couple of "Nipples" and finishes on sloper dish-pockets. The rock really reminds me of Shelf. The crux is high, moving through the slopers. A good variation that I did "awhile" back is "The Radical Mastectamy": climb the wall without using the two nipples at all.V4/5

Protection

Pretty highball, so a spotter might help.

Photos

Christian Eaton
Colorado
  V3
Christian Eaton   Colorado
  V3
Great climb! Off-style from the majority of Rotary climbing. Requires balance and trust of the feet. The fall is so clean. No risk of an unbalanced fall, so only one pad is necessary. Apr 6, 2017
seth0687
Fort Collins
seth0687   Fort Collins
There is no reason for this to have an R rating IMO. May 13, 2009
Brett Billings
Fort Collins, CO
 
Brett Billings   Fort Collins, CO
 
This is great problem, really a must do. Like everyone's said, I wouldn't let the landing deter you. I came off 3 or 4 times near the top and landed safely on my pad every time. Mar 13, 2009
Ricky Newman
Fort Collins, CO
  V3 PG13
Ricky Newman   Fort Collins, CO
  V3 PG13
Ughhhhh! Best "V3" problem at Rotary, yet so often overlooked. While the fall from the crux can be intimidating at best, with a big pad or two small ones and a conscious spotter, this problem shouldn't cause any bodily harm. While the R grade may have applied back before the landing was gardened, I don't think it is as applicable today. Jun 10, 2008
Buster Jesik
Allenspark, CO
Buster Jesik   Allenspark, CO
If you want to work it out on TR (like I did) you can use a #3 C4, #1 C4, and a #9 BD stopper for an anchor. Jun 9, 2008
dave v  
This is a fantastic problem. Balance and technique, not power. I did it once in '77. Never repeated. Well worth working on! Feb 13, 2008