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Routes in The Scoop Area

Bulge (North of The Scoop) V2 5+
Classic Crack T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V0- 4-
Doxology V12 8A+
Master of Disaster V5 6C
Mini Meat V8 7B
Retard Sandwich V7 7A+
Scoop Arete, The V1 5 PG13
Scoop, The V3+ 6A+
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Mark Wilford
Page Views: 5,687 total, 33/month
Shared By: Adam Holmes on Nov 3, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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34 Opinions

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Description

This is one of the best problems at Horsetooth, the kind of problem that begs to be climbed. It is in the league with the quality of the famous Mental Block and Eliminator problems, but it's so isolated from the other problems at Rotary that I'm not sure if many people bother to come check out this one problem. It is a stemming problem reminiscent of Stem Gem at Joshua Tree. If the power problems on the Mental Block frustrate you, then try The Scoop where technique and a clear head are more important.

Protection

Flat landing, pads.

Location

Actually, this is located pretty far north of Rotary Park. It's best to drive north from the Rotary parking area until you get to the Sunrise Day Use Parking (about 3/4 mile). Hike south from this parking area on an obvious trail that skirts along the clifftop. It heads down a hill, then back uphill through some pines. When you emerge from the pines, keep an eye out on your right for a rusty pipe sticking out of the rock. Scramble down a break in the cliff right after this pipe. At the base of the cliff, hike about 15 yards south and The Scoop will be the obvious, tan face. Climb up the middle of the face, to the roof and pull over.

Photos

Ben Pingilley
Denver, CO
  V4 PG13
Ben Pingilley   Denver, CO
  V4 PG13
This didn't seem possible at first in the summer heat but finally went after several tries. The start was a tricky stem while pressing with my left palm. Went up and left through the roof on jugs. Really fun route. Sep 5, 2017
Owen Murphy
Fort Collins, CO
  V3+
Owen Murphy   Fort Collins, CO
  V3+
Excellent route. There's a fun, difficult traverse across the face I was playin' with yesterday going from the left arete across to the right one. May 3, 2017
BrendanP Moran
Fort Collins, Colorado
  V3
BrendanP Moran   Fort Collins, Colorado
  V3
Firing straight up the roof is a little reachy and a bit scary but fully worth it. End this excellent problem with a bang! Mar 30, 2013
I'd say solid V3. Awesome and very aesthetic problem. Bring your body tension for those terrible sloping feet and a dash of flexibility for some of the highsteppin'! Oct 31, 2005
Adam Holmes  
 
I saw this rated as V3 in Benningfield's guide. I wasn't trying to uprate the Scoop when I placed it in the database. I just honestly didn't know the grade and made a guess. It's probably V3 for most people but V5 for people like me who have the flexibilty of a steel rod. Jan 28, 2004
Adam Holmes  
 
This is listed as a Modified Route, however, I don't believe that it is....did somebody go in and add that, or did I accidentally list it as such when I added it to the database?? Jan 11, 2004
Adam Holmes  
 
Correction for the directions:

"When you emerge from the pines keep an eye out on your RIGHT for a rusty pipe sticking out of the rock." Nov 10, 2003