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Routes in South Ridgeline, including Cat's Eye Face & Bolt Wall

Black Slabbath V-easy 3
Bolt Wall TR V1- 5- X
Bolt Wall Chimney V0- 4-
Cat Eye Wall: Upper Roof (aka Face It, You're a Flake) T,TR V0 4
Cat Spock Traverse V4 6B
Cat's Eye Face TR V3 6A R
Corner Cling T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0 4
Knob Boy Arete V1+ 5
Lynn Hill Roof TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mr. Spock V3 6A
Pin Scar Finger Crack T,TR V2 5+
Revenge of the Nerds V7 7A+
Slab Happy V-easy 3
Tendonitis Traverse V7 7A+
Thin Crack T,TR V0+ 4+ R
Type: TR, Boulder, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,346 total, 62/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 20, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is probably the best moderate high ball problem at Rotary. There are many variations that begin about 10ft right of the 5.8 OW and about 10ft left of the 5.10+ finger crack on the main wall. The first 15ft of the route is the crux, with the harder variation being on the right. The difficult moves end at a horizontal rail about 15ft up. The final 20ft of climbing angles up and right on positive edges and is ~5.9. Take your time on the top out, since there is some loose rock and you are 35-40ft up. Don't fall...

Protection

Pads and a spot for the first half, or misc. gear for a TR setup.

Photos

Robert Curry
Evans, Co
 
Robert Curry   Evans, Co
 
Awesome vid, man, thanks for the link. Jul 5, 2009
Brett Billings
Fort Collins, CO
 
Brett Billings   Fort Collins, CO
 
Robert, I have some of the Horan books as well, but I've found that the exact info and locations of some of the problems at Rotary Park in those books aren't accurate. In general, because this site receives input from multiple sources familiar with the areas (not that they're are always correct) I've found that the information on here is usually better than the guide books. I would say that with the problems that don't match up between the 95 Horan book and Mountain Project, the errors likely are in the book. In terms of this problem, there are several lines one can take up the Bolt Wall as described in the description, and that information is good. If you want to see a video of what is considered the "standard" route up the Bolt Wall, check this out: youtube.com/watch?v=C4iH3Hb… Jul 1, 2009
Robert Curry
Evans, Co
 
Robert Curry   Evans, Co
 
According to Colorado Front Range Bouldering Volume:1 Fort Collins Area by Bob Horan circa 1995 half of these problems are not right. This one included plus a hand full that I have chosen not worth Studying. Just an FYI. Climb on. Jun 30, 2009
A very fun but very high. There are positive holds the entire way up but finding them is not as obvious as one might think. Mar 27, 2009
Jordan A.  
 
Try the Bolt Wall Dyno (V8) for a nice change of pace. Begins left of standard bolt wall route matched on an obvious (and huge) right-facing sidepull at about head height. Paste feet really high, rock up and throw like hell directly up to the distant, juggy "break" which runs the horizontal length of the bolt wall face approximately 14-16 ft up. It's the same continuous jug ledge used while climbing through the standard bolt wall (first great rest about one-third way up after crimp- if that helps). Bring tape for this one! Oct 12, 2007