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Routes in Torture Chamber

Crack in Groove T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cracky Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death Arête V3 6A
Dos Gorditos T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Final Finger TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gracie's Dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left of Roof -- Three Variations V0 4
Nemesis Northeast Face TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Northwest Arete V1 5
Out of the Horse's Mouth T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofus, The T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S-Crack TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sagas 50 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Some boulder problem with a crack V-easy 3 R
Torture Chamber Traverse V1 5
Tree Roof TR V0 4
Unknowl arete TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown 5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.9 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
WTF T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Crack TR V-easy 3
West Flake TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 5,382 ft
GPS: 40.529, -105.14 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Mike Epke on May 24, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

The Torture Chamber area has both bouldering and short top ropes. There are some well known classics, but to be fun, you can climb up all over the ridge to set a top rope. It is primarily bouldering at the top of the ridge, then as working down the ridge towards S-Crack and Nemesis Tower, it is more TR due to height (25-30 feet). Classics include the Torture Chamber traverse, Borgman's Bulge, and S-Crack (TR).

Per JFM, the L->R is:

Final Finger, 10-, 1p, 30', TR.
Cracky Face, 9+, 1p, 30', TR.
Crack in Groove. 8-, 1p, 30', TR.
S-Crack, 10, 1p, 30', TR.
Gracie’s Dihedral, 9, 1p, 30', gear or TR.
Unnamed 5.9, 9, 1p, 30', TR.
Nemesis Northeast Face, 11-, 1p, 30', TR.
West Flake, 9, 1p, 30', TR.
West Crack, V-easy, 1p, 30, TR or boulder.

WTF, 8, 1p, 40', TR.
Sagas 50, 7, 1p, 40', gear or TR.
The Roofus, 9, 1p, 40', TR.
Dos Gorditos, 10, 1p, 40', gear or TR.

Left of Roof, V0, 15'.
Tree Roof, V0, 20', boulder or TR.
Torture Chamber Traverse, V2-.
Some Boulder Problem…, V-easy R, 25'.

Getting There

From the intersection of Harmony and Taft Hill in SW Fort Collins, drive 1.8 miles west on Harmony to a dirt pull-off on the right before you come to the dam. The ridge that is in front of you and running back downhill and east is the Torture Chamber area.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Torture Chamber

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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JFM
JFM  
If I've messed up the order here, please let me know via PM and we'll get it fixed ASAP. May 5, 2014
Has any one else noticed that holds are "falling" off of some of the problems at the Torture Chamber? On the roof by the tree, Borglum's Bulge and the TT traverse key holds are no longer there. All of this has occurred since June or so of 2003. I suspect some self righteous asshole who believes they have a certain special right to the rock at horsetooth is to blame and they are taking it out on easier problems. This same thing was happening at the Tropics shortly before it was closed. Whoever you are STOP! You are not doing any one any good. Leave the frigging rock as it is! Aug 20, 2003
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Pumpy traverse with a few sharp edges. Not too bad, though. Good high ball problems that are fun to do. I was here in late afternoon and felt the burn of the rock. Good for the hands! Jul 25, 2003
Mike Epke
Denver, CO
Mike Epke   Denver, CO
The problem is definitely pumpy, but it also has good hand holds throughout so I was reluctant to give it the V1 rating and was thinking more like V0-, but then before posting the climb I looked in Colorado Bouldering and saw the V1 grade so went with it. The climb is a great work out where you will definitely be feeling the pump by the end. Jun 15, 2003
While any one move on the TT Traverse may be V1, I would be surprised if the concensus grade of the entire traverse would be. I'm no Chris Sharma, but have done some pretty hard problems and climbs and this traverse is PUMPY! In the old Horan Front Range Bouldering guide it gets B1. Its gotta be 50 moves or so. What do ya think folks. (I'm opening myself up for some serious slander here huh?) Jun 8, 2003

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