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Routes in Land of the Rising Moon

Analog V8-9 7B+
Blade Runner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Colorado Cable Cutter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cross of Iron T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Digital V6 7A
Drain Pipe T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Drainpipe Left Exit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Master of Sport T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Moonrise Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Straight and Narrow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: John Garson, Jeb Schenck, 1971
Page Views: 3,568 total, 24/month
Shared By: Stephen Marsh on Jul 31, 2005
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

In the middle of LRM, look for an easy to identify dihedral (Straight & Narrow). Master of Sport is a left to right-angling crack to the left which joins S&N halfway up. This is a really good route, and NOT offwidth climbing.

Hand jamming, liebacking, and possibly [a little] wide technique will get you to the top. Starting in the large, left-facing corner ascend a double crack system which turns into a triple crack system. Gain a stance on a small platform. Leaving this to get to the bomber hand jams above is the crux. Belay at a large chockstone with slings around it. Check condition of slings before trusting!

There is a 2nd pitch option which continues up the wide crack to the top. This is the 3rd pitch of Drain Pipe, rated 5.4. Scramble down the backside.

Protection

Small to medium cams, you don't need offwidth gear, may want extra webbing/slings in case rappel slings are bad
Mat D.
Laramie, WY
Mat D.   Laramie, WY
Great route! I didn't actually think this was a sandbag at 5.8+ and thought maybe just 5.8 was about right, and I'm not a particularly strong or bold climber.

The route eats gear wherever you might want it (I would add that a single #4 Camalot is nice to have), and I thought the route was easier than Zipper (5.8+) and the hand jam section of Strawberry Jam (5.8). On top of that, the route has 4 really good rests that I can think of, 3 of which are no-hands rests. You don't actually need any offwidth technique to complete this climb, but I did use a few heel-toes anyway to appease the wide crack gods.

So don't be scared off, go climb this thing! Aug 14, 2017
Let me give you some perspective. When John and I put this up 46 years ago, it was just at the beginning of a push to free all the aid routes. We didn't want to over-rate things. To us, back then it was a solid 8, not a 9 at all. Things that seemed to be a 9 were like Pooh Corner (just barely) and Fantasia at 9+. The Friday Folly (original name of the Water Streak) on Walt's Wall was considered a thin 9, maybe 9+. We weren't trying to sandbag--just a little conservative about rating too high. Have fun! Jeb Apr 19, 2017
Katie Foster
Laramie, Wy
  5.9+
Katie Foster   Laramie, Wy
  5.9+
Very sustained, there are no easy moves on this climb, so relative to other climbs at the Voo which have the same rating but only one tricky move (Fat Antelope), it's very stiff. Jul 14, 2015
Christina kalb
Boulder, CO
  5.8+
Christina kalb   Boulder, CO
  5.8+
I agree with Nolteboy that this felt tough for the grade (harder than some other Vedauwoo 5.8s that I've done). I used 2 #1 cams, 1 #2, #3, #0.5, and a couple of nuts and hexes. The slings are basically gone from the chockstone now, but you can rap from the bolts (60 meter makes it with plenty of extra rope). Sep 30, 2013
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
Great 5.8+, don't miss the crack in the back (right side) on the start next time. Sep 8, 2009
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.8
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.8
With those new bolts up there, it adds a very enjoyable 5.7-5.8 finish to this route. Rack from tips to fists, with doubles in tight hands to big hands (I carried doubles from 0.75 to 3 Camalots), and some nuts if you don't like trusting small gear. It's about 60 feet from base to bolts (the middle mark of my 70m was just hitting my belayer's device when I reached the ground). Aug 10, 2008
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.8+
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.8+
There are new bolts with rings at the top of this route. They are shared with the route "Master of Sport" and easy to spot from the base. A single 50 meter line will get you back down. Jun 29, 2007
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
Maybe it was just the end of a long day, but this felt tough for the 5.8+ grade, even here at the 'Voo. A great route that needs a couple of bolts to descend from, instead of the rat's nest of slings currently in place. Oct 24, 2005