The Ribbon  WI4

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Type:  Trad, Ice, 4 pitches Consensus:  WI4 [details] FA:  Don't know Season:  All winter depending on a Submitted By:  Matt Ledges on Feb 21, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Gordo leading the crux on 2/21/05.

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Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>> Revenue and Camp Bird Mines have resumed mining activities further up Camp Bird Rd. A new sign posted in February 2013 caused some tension as described in: www.watchnewspapers.com/view/full_story/21840965/article-Ten>>> Please refrain from blocking the road, yield to oncoming mining vehicle traffic, and be careful of rockfall and icefall. Please share the road to minimize future access issues with the road's multiple user groups. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Not much can be said about this area classic that hasn't been said before. One glance and you won't be able to get her out of your mind. You may court some of her friends across the valley, but deep down inside you'll feel guilty because she's the one you want. Listen closely and you'll hear her Siren Song. But as history has taught us so well, beauty comes at a price. Only the wise man will pass safely.

Approach cautiously from the Senator Gulch parking lot, and then only with a reassuring avalanche report. The bowl above is not entirely visible and should be considered loaded in the absence of contradictory evidence. Various descriptions estimate the length of the route to be 600-750 feet, but depending on conditions there may be less than 500 feet of climbable ice.

The ice is more abundant and the climbing more straightforward on this slender line than it appears from across the valley. Conditions vary greatly from year to year and a mixed start on thin ice can be the crux. During a good season, start on easy WI3 ice for 80-100 feet to the first vertical step. As you pull over the bulge and ease over lower angle ice, look for two shiny new bolts with bomber chains high to the left. Most will belay here for a 3 pitch climb. To economize, run out P1 250 feet to the base of the narrow, second vertical section while your partner simul-climbs. A semi-hanging belay to the right will save a pummeling from falling ice above. This will set up a final 170 foot pitch, topping out at the end of the long snow filled gully visible from the road. Otherwise, P2 will take you past this second vertical step for a screw belay then a shorter WI3+ third pitch to finish. If you don't want to risk your life for a couple hundred feet of snow covered WI 2 ice, call it a day. Two decent pins with several slings and rings are obvious to the right. Three raps are recommended, the second from V-threads. Only one party should climb at a time as there is little protection from falling ice above. Climb wisely, enjoy the music.

Protection 

Full set of screws, including some stubbies. Unless the start is dry rock pro not needed. One rap each off chains, pins and V-threads.

Toprope Protection 

See Gravity's Rainbow.

Photos of The Ribbon Slideshow

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From the safe side of the valley, P1 Ribbon, no yo...	This is what happens several times a day during hi...	BETA PHOTO: The Ribbon, Late January 2007--as seen from Camp B...
P1 on The Ribbon... with a little light spindrift ...	P1 on The Ribbon, seconds later... this time with ...	Matt B. Scratching up The Ribbon.
The Ribbon with not much snow around it.	The Ribbon from below on 12/4/2010.	Ribbon on evening of 1/15/2011 with climbers. Ful...
Closer view of the Ribbon on 1/15/2011. A climber...