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 ADVANCED
Camp Bird Road
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
99 Problems T 
Bird Brain Boulevard T 
Cavegina S 
Chock Up Another One T 
Chockstone Chimney T 
Choppo's Chimney T 
Cinnamon and Cider S 
Cleft, The 
Desperado  T 
Dirty Bird 
Dirty Minds T 
Dumpster Diver S 
Fistful of Steel S 
Fractured Fairytales T 
Going Retro S 
Goldline S 
Hairy Devil T 
House/Kennedy Chimney, The T 
Killer Pillar T 
Local Scoop, The S 
M6 Corner T 
M7 Crack T 
Maid to Order S 
Mile 4 S 
Negligent Behavior T 
O'Donnell's Route 
Racing Stripe (Right) T 
Ribbon, The T 
Rusty Cage T 
Senator Gulch T,TR 
Shattered Dreams 
Skillet's Revenge 
Sky is Falling, The S 
Skylight T 
Slip Sliding Away T 
Slippery When Wet T 
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 
Talisman, The T 
Tasty Talks T 
Tourist Trap 
Troglodyte S 
Troutman/Rodent, The T 
Wake Up Call T 
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T 
Weak and the Weary T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Ribbon 

WI4

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 4 pitches
Consensus: WI4 [details]
FA: Don't know
Season: All winter depending on a
Page Views: 9,168
Submitted By: Matt Ledges on Feb 21, 2005

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P1 on The Ribbon... with a little light spindrift ...
Yield to mining vehicle traffic MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Not much can be said about this area classic that hasn't been said before. One glance and you won't be able to get her out of your mind. You may court some of her friends across the valley, but deep down inside you'll feel guilty because she's the one you want. Listen closely and you'll hear her Siren Song. But as history has taught us so well, beauty comes at a price. Only the wise man will pass safely.

Approach cautiously from the Senator Gulch parking lot, and then only with a reassuring avalanche report. The bowl above is not entirely visible and should be considered loaded in the absence of contradictory evidence. Various descriptions estimate the length of the route to be 600-750 feet, but depending on conditions there may be less than 500 feet of climbable ice.

The ice is more abundant and the climbing more straightforward on this slender line than it appears from across the valley. Conditions vary greatly from year to year and a mixed start on thin ice can be the crux. During a good season, start on easy WI3 ice for 80-100 feet to the first vertical step. As you pull over the bulge and ease over lower angle ice, look for two shiny new bolts with bomber chains high to the left. Most will belay here for a 3 pitch climb. To economize, run out P1 250 feet to the base of the narrow, second vertical section while your partner simul-climbs. A semi-hanging belay to the right will save a pummeling from falling ice above. This will set up a final 170 foot pitch, topping out at the end of the long snow filled gully visible from the road. Otherwise, P2 will take you past this second vertical step for a screw belay then a shorter WI3+ third pitch to finish. If you don't want to risk your life for a couple hundred feet of snow covered WI 2 ice, call it a day. Two decent pins with several slings and rings are obvious to the right. Three raps are recommended, the second from V-threads. Only one party should climb at a time as there is little protection from falling ice above. Climb wisely, enjoy the music.


Protection 

Full set of screws, including some stubbies. Unless the start is dry rock pro not needed. One rap each off chains, pins and V-threads.


Toprope Protection 

See Gravity's Rainbow.



Photos of The Ribbon Slideshow Add Photo
P1 on The Ribbon, seconds later... this time with a little more spindrift.
P1 on The Ribbon, seconds later... this time with ...
From the safe side of the valley, P1 Ribbon, no yodelling please!
From the safe side of the valley, P1 Ribbon, no yo...
The Ribbon, Late January 2007--as seen from Camp Bird Road.
BETA PHOTO: The Ribbon, Late January 2007--as seen from Camp B...
This is what happens several times a day during high avy danger. Taken from the Poser's Lounge Dec 20.
This is what happens several times a day during hi...
The Ribbon from below on 12/4/2010.
The Ribbon from below on 12/4/2010.
Closer view of the Ribbon on 1/15/2011.  A climber can be seen about half-way up in orange/red jacket and his/her partner above in green(?) jacket.
Closer view of the Ribbon on 1/15/2011. A climber...
The Ribbon with not much snow around it.
The Ribbon with not much snow around it.
The Ribbon.
The Ribbon.
Ribbon on evening of 1/15/2011 with climbers.  Full route in view.
Ribbon on evening of 1/15/2011 with climbers. Ful...
Gordo leading the crux on 2/21/05.
Gordo leading the crux on 2/21/05.
At the top of the third pitch.
At the top of the third pitch.
Matt B. Scratching up The Ribbon.
Matt B. Scratching up The Ribbon.
My buddy and me toasting before a long day on The Ribbon. It was in pretty good shape. The line is directly behind us.
My buddy and me toasting before a long day on The ...
Comments on The Ribbon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Ledges
Mar 1, 2005

Seems more in shape now than the last couple years. A bit of a hook fest. Not as challenging as it appears, but definitely worth waiting for. Barely any exposed rock on the entire route. Took 16s and 19s all the way up.

By Garry Baker
From: Montrose, CO
Dec 11, 2006

There are 4 sets of anchor bolts with chains on this climb as of 12/10/06, all easily reachable with 60m ropes. The first anchors are about 50 feet up the gully before the real climbing begins. No need to v-thread on this route anymore, unless the bolts are covered. Be careful not to climb past the chains, like I did at the last set!

By jjjust
Jan 2, 2012

By eDixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Jan 11, 2012

P1 bolts are on the left (semi-hanging), P2 on the right (in the cave), P3 on the right (15' below an old pin anchor).

By Shameless Shaemus
Nov 20, 2013

If there's a couple of cars (i.e. climbing parties heading that way), you might wanna keep a head's up if any party is climbing Birdbrain as it's increasingly popular to rap The Ribbon afterwards.