Te Dum 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Hans Kraus, Roger Wolcott, 1949. FFA: Art Gran, 1958 |
| Submitted By: | Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006 |
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Te Dum Pitch 1
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Description An interesting route with several variations. It is often described in 2 pitches, but it's much simpler to climb to the clifftop in one pitch.
Start just right of Inverted Layback at a 6"-wide crack on the left wall of a big dihedral. This is about 55' left of Disneyland.
P1: Climb the face by the crack for 25' (V1). When the crack flares, traverse up and right to an arete. Move right and up (crux) to small stance and a tree (optional belay) in a clean dihedral. From here, climb up and right, turning an easy roof on the right, and continue to the top. 5.7, 120'.
V1: The climb can also be started on the right wall of the initial corner, bypassing the wide crack.
Descend by an easy stroll, climber's right, back to the base.
Protection Standard Rack, with optional larger (3-4") pieces.
Te Dum Mid of First Pitch
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BETA PHOTO: super short pitch 2
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High Exposure guide Jason Beaupre with clients on ...
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By Spiro
Oct 18, 2008
rating: 5.7
| great climb. belay was uncomfortable. |
By tuscanes
From: rosendale, ny
Mar 15, 2009
rating: 5.7+
| Avoid the belay. Do it in one pitch. |
By losbill
Mar 21, 2009
rating: 5.7
| I agree. The belay is a pain with your second tied in below you since the corner is pretty narrow. Do it in one pitch. Also back up any fixed gear. The pins, if they are still there, were not good three years ago. |
By Jim O'Brien
From: Branford, CT
May 4, 2009
| Good 1st pitch- crux was not too bad, a quick nut placement calmed me down... The belay station sucked- bail here and belay your second from the ground or continue up the blocky dihedrial. |
By Michael G
Jul 20, 2009
| I climbed this in two pitches two days ago, and was able to backup the resident webbing (tree and fixed tricam) with three cams.
Everyone should try to listen to the advice Williams gives in his guidebooks and consider trees off-route. Breaking a limb off a tree can easily have negative consequences for it's life span down the road. |
By Optimistic
From: New Paltz
Sep 16, 2010
| Really nice route. Definitely linking the two pitches is the way to go. Don't rap or TR off the tree at the first belay, it has enough problems without adding your weight to the list. |
By MattPerkins
May 17, 2011
| The tree belay mentioned in above posts is very definitely uncomfortable. If you want to set up a belay, it is much better to establish your own anchors 5 feet above. You are still hanging but it is much more comfortable.
That traverse on the "second" pitch is good fun! |
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Mar 7, 2012
rating: 5.7+
| Definitely combine the pitches. No need to do it as 2, the second pitch is relatively easy and short. Doubles help but aren't necessary. Just extend your runners at the crux and in the corner before you do the traverse and you should be fine. Oh, and a great climb! Solid 30 feet of sustained and varying 5.7 climbing, with the remainder of the climb being easier (5.5-ish) but equally interesting. |
By kenr
Apr 11, 2013
| Lots of interesting climbing at the 6 and 7 level, with some thoughtful moves not typical for Gunks face climbing, one sequence pretty exciting. Pro not always easy to place, so good to have some previous experience with Gunks leading. Normally I'm a strong advocate of double-ropes, but in this case the diagonal line doesn't have many "bends" in it, seemed to go pretty well with a single rope. |
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