Home to the legend Wolfgang Güllich and his über famous Action Directe (9a). Also the birthplace of the Redpoint (Rotpunkt) by Kurt Albert. Because of this, it's not surprising that this place is best known for hard sport climbing. It's sort of the anti-Elbsandstein; not that that's a bad thing!
There are roughly 10,000 known routes in this gigantic area, and some crags are very secluded, so you'll want to plan ahead before just cruising over. You have a choice of over 1500 crags to visit spread over an area of 2,723.5 square miles.
Also, the type of stone is limestone, and it is characterized as being very pocketed. The rock is anywhere from slabby (though often with sections which could be overhanging), to overhanging. Routes here are typically between 8 and 30 meters (~24-100 ft.), but some can be up to 40m long! The vast majority are 25m or less.
Bouldering is also possible in the Frankenjura and there are many many boulder problems here. To accomodate (and spur) the growing popularity of bouldering, 3 new bouldering gyms have opened in the past 2 years in just the area around Nürnberg, and one of the gyms has already been expanded to become the largest bouldering gym in Germany. Nevertheless, you won't find a bouldering guidebook for the region because it's forbidden.
Beer gardens abound and there is never a shortage of good food to be found in any of the villages or small cities within the Frankenjura. Climbing is very popular here, so expect to meet other climbers at the crag, and don't be too surprised if some of the popular routes at the popular crags are a bit polished.
Here's a fantastic website with lots of information: www.climb.frankenjura.com/deutsch/index.php3 (EDIT: This website is still usefull for some information, but now requires paid membership to access the topos.) Here's DMM's write-up of their visit to the Frankenjura in 2012: dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/destination-frankenjura-vid/
Northern Frankenjura lies in southern Germany, specifically in Franconia (the northern part of Bavaria), and thus in the middle of Central Europe. The area is limited in the west by the city of Bamberg and the region Nuernberg-Fuerth-Erlangen. At its eastern edge are the cities Bayreuth and Amberg-Sulzbach.
There are a lot of motorways coming in from all directions: From north or south you will reach Frankenjura by using the A9, from Frankfurt is the A3, & from Heidelberg the A6. Coming from Tschechien (east), take the A6.
Relying on trains and buses here is difficult, despite Germany's otherwise fantastic infrastructure. The areas East of Nürnberg are the most accessible with the train (from Velden down to Etzlwang). Look at the map of train tracks below and compare it to the map of the crags to the left.
I highly recommend you rent a car for your visit. Not only will it be easier to reach the crags since you can follow the given directions, but you'll also be able to reach camping areas and you have the freedom to go do something else on rest days. Having said that, driving in Germany is a little different. Many, but not all, rentals are automatic, so request one if you can't drive a stick. In general, stay concentrated while driving, pay extra special care in towns and drive like you see others driving and you'll be okay. But if you really want to know the differences, here's a detailed description: www.bfgnet.de/hive-europe/files/BFG_CD/welcome2bfgresource/M>>>
Climbing Terms in German
Here is a list of some climbing terms which may help you on a trip to the Frankenjura, Italy, or France: www.bergsport-kolb.de/download/alpines_woerterbuch_alle_spra>>>
Spring - often wonderful weather and not much rain. This season (from late March to early June) lends itself best to climbing in the Frankenjura. In the early part, you may suffer through steep hikes through dead leaves and it may be very cold, especially in the morning, and it may even still snow on you. Also, rock may be wet due to melting snow. However, there is surely another exposed area which is dry. Mid to late Spring is perfect.
Summer - In the early parts (early June through mid July) and then again near the beginning of Fall (September) you can have great conditions in the shade and under tree canopies. However, during the middle of Summer (mostly August) you can enjoy climbing easy and moderate routes and enjoying great beer gardens, but ticking off hard projects is practically impossible. The humidity causes you to just grease right off the holds.
Fall - Through most of Fall you can expect good climbing conditions. November, however, is notorious for being a rainy month. There are tons of overhanging crags which shelter you from the rain, but after weeks of it, even the most water resistant crags can get sopping wet.
Winter - Climbing in the Frankenjura during Winter is truly an art. It can be done, but dedicating a climbing trip to the Frankenjura during Winter is for the foolhardy. If you're naturally extremely lucky, please come visit and bring good weather with you. If not, fly to Turkey, Greece, Spain or Italy, or one of the Mediterranean islands.
For those rainy days where you just can't find any dry rock (or can't climb the dry routes), there are an assortment of Gyms in the area:
www.magnesia-klettern.de/ Arguably the best sport climbing gym, and also one of the only ones!
cafekraft.de/ Nürnberg's premier bouldering gym which started a bouldering revolution here.
blockhelden.de/ Located in a village south of Forchheim and north of Erlangen. Bigger than Cafe Kraft but lacking a "cool factor".
boulderhalle-e4.de/ ANOTHER bouldering gym! The newest one, also in Nürnberg.
www.climbing-factory.de/preise.html In my opinion not nice at all, but they do offer sport climbing instead of just bouldering.
www.sportcentrum-nbg.de/ Another climbing gym which is pretty small because it has lots of other sport possibilities. Has both climbing and bouldering.
www.boulderhalle-frankenjura.de/ The only bouldering gym I'm aware of that's actually in the Frankenjura.
Here's a list of campgrounds available in the Frankenjura, along with their location. The 3 most popular climber campgrounds where you'll most likely be able to jump into another group if you're solo are "Bärenschlucht", "Eichler", and "Zur guten Einkehr".
Camping Waldmühle: Guest house with camping. Two cabins and a mobile home are also available to book. Address: Freienfels 31, 96142 Hollfeld
Camping auf dem Kormershof: Camping with showers. Address: Allersdorf 10, 91327 Gößweinstein
Campingplatz Betzenstein: Camping, rooms, imbiss, sauna, steamroom. Address: Hauptstr. 69, 91282 Betzenstein
Camping "Eichler": Camping with showers, rooms, food, and supplies. Haselstauden and Untertrubach (Oma Eichler's Campground) Address: Wolfsberg 43, 91286 Obertrubach
Camping "Bärenschlucht": Address: Weidmannsgesees 12, 91278 Pottenstein
Camping "Bieger": Address: Rothenbühl 3, 91320 Ebermannstadt
Frankenalb-Camping: Address: Nürnberger Straße 5, 92268 Etzelwang
Camping Moritz: Address: Moritz 14, 91327 Moritz
Camping "Steinerner Beutel": Address: Hauptstr. 146, 91344 Waischenfeld
Gasthof "Alte Post": Address: Hausnummer 7, 91282 Leupoldstein
Gasthof "Kroder": Address: Hausnummer 43, 91327 Schlaifhausen
Gasthof "Zur guten Einkehr": Address: 91327 Morschreuth
Heuhotel "Fischbeck": The most interesting offers of all here. Here you can sleep on hay, and a large "farmer's breakfast" is served the following morning. After hiking, climbing, nordic walking, whatever, you can come back for grilled food and great beer. Address: Hauptstraße 27, 91247 Vorra / Pegnitz
696 Total Routes
['4 Stars',49],['3 Stars',147],['2 Stars',240],['1 Star',235],['Bomb',15]
Featured Route For Frankenjura
Sekundant 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Europe
: ... : Rodenstein
The start is a bit tough, so there's no shame in pre-clipping the high first bolt. As you can see by the spacing between bolts, the business is all concentrated between the first and the third bolt. Getting to the fourth bolt is also not very easy, but the difficulty really eases up after that. The climbs in this section are on very compact rock, which means that the pockets which abound at most of the other crags in the Frankenjura aren't quite as prevalent here. However, this climb has some co...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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|By Owen Darrow|
Feb 24, 2011
How many areas or crags are in the area surrounding Frankenjura?
|By Mark J Gain|
May 24, 2011
The Frankenjura is a spectacular place to climb but you want a car to get around. The crags are spread out much like Fountainbleu (France) and/or Arco (Italy). Although I prefer Arco and Finale in Italy the Frankenjura has a tremendous amount of s;ightly shorter and forested climbing than Italy. A must to Visit if climbing in Europe along with Spain, France/Dolomites Italy etc...
|By Shawn Heath|
From: Forchheim, Germany
Jun 13, 2011
There are TONS of great routes 5.10 and under here. If you're not a rock star, come check out the Frankenjura! You'll have a great time climbing on great rock and eating great food and drinking great beer. Not to mention, the people are also great!
If you're visiting, let me know if you're interested in buying my used but in very good condition guidebook. It's in English and is perfect for somebody visiting and who is interested in checking out all the Frankenjura has to offer. Here's the book: www.panico.de/de/panico_buecher/mittelgebirgsfuehrer/franken>>> I'll sell you mine for €5 and let you choose between shipping it to you or giving it to you personally if you're in the area.