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Routes in Katzenbuckel

Der Schnüffelpoet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Die Sucht der Träumer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Direkte Südwestkante S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eidechsenweg (R 2) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Freundschaftsweg S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hund Nr. 2787 - 6 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Kurze Ostwand S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Linke Südwand S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Linke Talseite S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nordostkante S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rocky on the Catwalk S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Südwestkante (SW Arete) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 1,482 ft
GPS: 50.021, 11.065 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 514 total · 7/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Aug 21, 2011
Admins: Shawn Heath
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Description

A different flavor of limestone climbing than what you usually get in the Frankenjura. Here, pockets are very seldom. Climbs predominantly ascend crimps and slopers, unless you're following one of the crack lines. Also, due to the lack of features, crack climbing here can actually be enjoyable as the walls of the cracks are pretty smooth, making for nice jamming. And even though there are cracks here, a set of quickdraws is all you'll need because they're all bolted.
The rock is generally of relatively low quality. The further right you are (the tower, for example) the better the rock is. Further left it gets pretty crumbly. Either stay very alert or bring a helmet for at least the belayer, or both.
The crag is exposed to sunlight, so wear sunblock or avoid climbing here in summer.

Getting There

From Nürnberg, drive north on the A73 to Bamberg. Change over onto the A70 towards Bayreuth/Berlin. Take the Scheßlitz exit (Exit 18) and turn left to drive under the Autobahn. Drive past Burgellern and Ehrl and into Stübig. In Stübig, the road forks and you need to take the left fork. Drive uphill and where the road takes it's first sharp turn (hairpin) go left onto the dirt road. Drive down this for 70m and park on the right.
In front of you is a path up the hill. Follow this path straight up to the crag. The trail reaches the crag where the picture was taken.

12 Total Climbs

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