Elevation: 1,360 ft
GPS: 50.99162, 9.55265
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,367,017 total · 7,215/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Jul 14, 2007
Admins: Shawn Heath
Access Issue: Potential Hazards Details

Description

Located in the northern half of a magical place called Euroland. Friendly locals (who likely speak a good amount of English) are usually more than willing to help you figure out where you're going or which route is which. Most routes have UIAA grades (exception: a few areas in the eastern half).

There's also plenty of climbing history in Germany. Harder free climbing got its impetus in the 1970's from a man by the name of Kurt Albert, who invented the redpoint at the Frankenjura area. Also, if you're super-badass and looking for a decent 5.14+, check out Action Directe put up by Wolfgang Güllich.

Please respect local ethics. Some areas prohibit chalk and metal protection.

For a bit of cultural flavor, some of the pre-existing information has been organized under Archive pages.

Getting There

Go to Euroland; it's a relatively large country with large amounts of beer.

The approach can be rather long if you start on a different continent.

Here's a handy map with a good overview of major climbing areas (in German): dav-felsinfo.de/ajaxdav/

Climbing Seasons

Below you can see a general overview of what the weather is typically like throughout Germany. However, the area around Freiburg (South-west Germany) is the sunniest in all of Germany, whereas it typically rains more in the north and east (Sächsische Schweiz). In general, however, German weather in April and November is pretty crap, though somewhat unpredictable. That means that you may get lucky and have sunshine and warmth, but more than likely it will rain in those two months.
The Germans have a saying for April: "April, April, er weiß nicht was er will." Directly translated, the saying means "April, April, he doesn't know what he wants." You can have sunshine immediately followed by rain/snow, warmth and then a drop in temps, or just solid sunshine for a week followed by solid rain.
November has generally crappier weather than April.

Having said that, you can plan a visit to Germany despite the rain. If it's raining for a week, go to the Frankenjura or further South in Bavaria. You can't climb in Saxony at all unless the rain has ceased for at least 2 days, making this region as difficult to plan as a trip to England, weather-wise. In the Pfalz, you can also climb on the rock no matter what the conditions, just because the sandstone is so much harder than in the Sächsische Schweiz.

Area Organization

The climbing areas linked on the left correspond to the "Germany Climbing Areas" picture and are large areas with many crags and up to many thousands of routes. More specific areas can be found by following these links to their sub-areas. If you have one in mind but don't see it right away and don't know exactly where it is, perform a search (on the right side of the blue bar at the top of every page on MP).

Most likely, Germany is a foreign country for you and thus, unfamiliar. If you would like to contribute routes or areas, please first perform a search to assure it doesn't already exist. If you don't find it, feel free to add whatever you've personally done (refer to Contribution Guidelines). For the areas I've created, I usually do them based on the parking lot if more than one crag is accessible from it. From there, I create sub-areas for the crags themselves. Here is an example: Kleinziegenfelder Tal. You can use this method for your contribution, or another if you think it makes more sense.

2,084 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Germany

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Steep Snow
 5
Höllental Standard
Snow, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 3
Fahrradkante
Trad, Sport, Alpine 9 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
Emporkante
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 6
Schaumschläger
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Kaminpfeiler (R 7)
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Richard Holzberger Ged. Weg
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Feuertaufe
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Panische Zeiten
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
OGER
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Blutspur
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Dampfhammer
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Entsafter
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
New Dimensions
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Chasin the Trane
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Krampfhammer
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Höllental Standard Oberbayern > Alpine > Zugspitze
 5
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Steep Snow Snow, Alpine
Fahrradkante Oberbayern > Alpine > Oberreintal
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad, Sport, Alpine 9 pitches
Emporkante Elbsandstein > … > Stille Gründe > Hirschgrundkegel
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Schaumschläger Frankenjura > Roter Fels > Roter Fels 2
 6
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Kaminpfeiler (R 7) Frankenjura > Weißenstein
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Richard Holzberger Ged. Weg Frankenjura > Rabenfels
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Feuertaufe Hunsrück/Moseltal > … > Mayen > Finsterlay
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Panische Zeiten Frankenjura > Weißenstein
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
OGER Hunsrück/Moseltal > … > Mayen > Finsterlay
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Blutspur Frankenjura > … > Diebesloch (Thi… > Oberes Diebesloch
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Dampfhammer Frankenjura > Weißenstein
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Entsafter Frankenjura > Weißenstein
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
New Dimensions Frankenjura > Ankatal > Ankatalwand
 3
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Chasin the Trane Frankenjura > Krottenseer Turm
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Krampfhammer Frankenjura > Weißenstein
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Germany »

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