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Routes in Neue Heimat

? S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cafe Caspary S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clipsticker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fair Value S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Franken Plaisir S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kaum Zeit zum Fürchten S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kleines Fürchterli S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neue Heimat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Querulant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Safety First S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 1,332 ft
GPS: 49.779, 11.422 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 286 total, 6/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Mar 30, 2014
Admins: Shawn Heath
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Description

A nice little partly sunny/partly shady (depending on time of day and amount of leaves on the trees) crag that offers some really pleasant climbing and a surprisingly good range of difficulty for such a small crag. The crag only has 12 routes currently (some other projects exist, potentially increasing the count by 2 or 3) on two small walls. The easiest routes are on the right wall, which is the first you approach, and the hardest routes on the left wall which is more difficult to get to and a little precarious. Put your things somewhere safe and maybe hang them on the wall so they don't go rolling down the hill like my camera did...

Getting There

Get to Pottenstein, and from there follow the signs towards Bayreuth. 700m after leaving Pottenstein you'll reach an intersection where the road branches off to Prüllsbirkig. Take this right and turn right into the parking lot located immediately at this intersection. From here, walk up the road in the direction of Prüllsbirkig for 20m and take the trail into the woods on the right (it starts out paved and then is a normal trail). Keep your eyes open so you don't miss the first left turn up the hill. Follow this trail 200m to reach the crag.
The GPS coordinates point to the parking lot because the crag is too difficult to find amongst the trees in the satellite photo.

Schöfflblock

If Neue Heimat was just a warm-up for you and you need to climb some hard 5.13 before calling it a day, Schöfflblock is also reached from the same parking lot. There are only two routes there: Funk beyond the Call of Duty (UIAA 10-) and Prik Nam Pla (10). They share a start and FbtCoD takes the left line of bolts while PNP takes the right.
To get to Schöfflblock, follow the red diamond trail east from the parking lot uphill. In 120m you'll take a trail leading away to the left and reach the crag in a few more meters.

10 Total Climbs

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