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Routes in Löwenstein

Norisweg T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 1,360 ft
GPS: 49.605, 11.508 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Jun 28, 2011
Admins: Shawn Heath
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Multipitch climbing possibilities in the Frankenjura! I had a great time during my visit to this crag. There are a total of 5 routes here, ranging in difficulty from UIAA 6- to 7- (5.8 to 5.10b). The routes are very vegetarian and typically follow cracks (the 7- is the exception). The book and website both say this crag faces north, but it was bathed in sunlight the entire time we were on it, so I'm kind of wondering about it.

I'm going to teach you a German word: Brennnessel. It means "Stinging-Nettle" and is similar to poison ivy in that it irritates your skin, but it's affects are short-lived. Touching it produces a stinging sensation, and visiting Löwenstein will likely introduce you to this unpleasant plant, especially if you go to the base of the cliff.

Getting There

You can reach this crag with the train or car.

Train: From Nuremberg, take the train to Velden. From Velden, head back towards Rupprechtstegen (leave the Bahnhof and walk down Bahnhofstraße, which follows the river Pegnitz on your left. This road dead ends into a Market, where you turn left. Follow this around the corner to the right and keep walking until the road turns left and heads out of town.) Continue straight down this road until you reach a bridge where, after crossing the river, you'll see a statue of a stag. Continue walking and when you're in front of somebody's house, you'll be able to see the view shown in the picture. Continue walking in the same direction (right of where the picture was taken) until you reach a pedestrian bridge.

By car: Get on the A9 headed north towards Bayreuth/Dresden. Exit at 47 and take a right at the end of the exit to enter Hormersdorf. Take the first left and head towards Rupprechtstegen (you'll drive through Menschhof, Wallsdorf, and Raitenberg on your way there). Go through Rupprechtstegen and head left towards Velden. You'll drive past lots of tempting walls such as Roter Fels, but keep driving through Lungsdorf. Shortly after leaving Lungsdorf you'll see a parking area on your left and the pedestrian bridge on your right. Park here.

Approach: From the foot bridge which I'm assuming you've already crossed, head straight towards the forest. Hang a left and continue on the main road (smaller, unmaintained roads jut off to the left and right, but stay on the good road). Cross over a concrete bridge over an irrigation ditch (or whatever it is) and continue towards the fence. Once you reach this fence with a high voltage thing in the center, head left downhill and go right when you can. At the end of the fence you'll see some of the crag and a little cairn. This is the beginning of Norisweg. To reach Keilerei, enter the minefield of Brennnessel and cross to the other side of the crag.

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Owen Darrow
Owen Darrow   Garmisch,
Thanks for this great description of how to get to the crag! Makes it soo easy Jun 29, 2011

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