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Routes in Kleine Wacht (little watch)

Dächlesweg S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hans Scharrer Gedächtnis-Weg. T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Linker Wachtkamin (Left Watch Chimney) T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Vagabundenpfeiler (Vegabond Buttress) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

This is a very popular place for pleasure climbers and beginners. As a result, I have one word to say: polished! Having said that, I climbed only 4 routes here, two of which were the only two in this entire area with stars (the climbing guide here only uses 3 stars, so most routes don't have a star on them anyway). All of the routes had some polish on them, but to varying degrees. The one with 3 stars (classic) was the most polished and by far the least fun, in my opinion. Access can get a little confusing so follow the directions carefully. You can see the rock from the train station, which in turns means you get a great view over the valley when you climb to the top of the routes here. It's really beautiful. Bring a camera if you choose to climb here.
There are 34 routes here ranging from 5.1 or 5.2 through 5.10c or so. A lot of them require some gear though, so bring a set of stoppers and slings.

Getting There

By train: Take the train from Erlangen or Nürnberg traveling in the direction of Bayreuth through Neuhaus, and get off in Vorra. Walk south from the train station until you run into the main road through town. Right after the road crosses a bridge over a little river, there is a sharp left turn and a road which goes uphill on your right (Hirschbacher Straße). Take this road uphill and continue walking straight until you see a field on your left and watch for a little road (it looks private) on the left which is called "Oberer Höhenweg". Walk down this road a short way and you'll be able to see a path leading up to the rock. It's about a 15 or 20 minute walk with the train.

With a car: From Nürnberg, get on the A9 and drive north (toward Bayreuth or Dresden). Get off on exit 49 and head towards Hersbruck. Continue through Hersbruck and when you get to Hohenstadt, keep left to head in the direction of Eschenbach. Continue down this road, keeping left to go to Alfalter (not through Eschenbach) and through Düsselbach before finally arriving in Vorra. Once you've reached Vorra, cross the bridge and take the road heading uphill on the right (Hirschbacher Straße). Follow this road uphill and figure out where to park. I didn't come here with a car, so I don't know where to leave it, but it looks like some people have left their cars on the road in front of the cliffs before. This road is called Oberer Höhenweg and branches off to the left from Hirschbacher Straße. After 70m down Oberer Höhenweg keep to the left and 160m later you'll see a path on the right heading up to the cliffs.

4 Total Climbs

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