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Routes in Maximilianswand

Amazonenpfeiler S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Auerbacher Weg S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elevation: 1,586 ft
GPS: 49.636, 11.613 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 331 total · 8/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 20, 2014
Admins: Shawn Heath
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Description

This undulating cliffline is huddled inconspicuously behind the much more imposing Krottenseer Turm. Despite its unassuming look, the crag is packed with classics lines, and many of the Franknejura’s most significant developers have left their mark along this wall, particularly Wolfgang Gullich, Mylan Sykora, John Bachar, Kim Carrigan, and Markus Bock. Although the climbs here are not as spectacular as those at some other Pegnitztal areas, the sheer density of climbs and range of difficulty make this a popular destination.

The cliff is located within a dense forest that provides substantial shade. A few lines here stay dry in the rain, but most of the routes tend toward vertical to slabby. The rock is relatively poorly featured by Frankenjura standards, and so the climbs tend to be less steep and more technical than similarly graded routes at other crags.

Getting There

From Neuhaus, follow the signs to Krottensee, and then once there, follow the signs to Maximiliansgrotte (well-signed). After passing the parking area for Maximiliansgrotte, continue along the same road (which turns to gravel just as you pass the cave parking) for 2.1km as it twists through the forest. Park on the left at a 4-5 car pullout with a kiosk. You can see Krottenseer Turm through the trees to the east from the kiosk. Follow the obvious trail to Krottenseer Turm, and then skirt that wall to the right, following an obvious trail. Maximilianswand is immediately right of (and slightly above) Krottenseer Turm.

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