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Routes in Krottenseer Turm

Chasin the Trane S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hitch Hike the Plane S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ira Technokratie S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Westwand S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Elevation: 1,579 ft
GPS: 49.636, 11.613 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 20, 2014
Admins: Shawn Heath
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Description

This impressive tower of limestone is home to several of the most famous lines in the Frankenjura, most notably Wolfgang Gullich’s Wallstreet, the first 5.14b in the world. The routes on the left side of this northwest-facing wall tend towards thin and technical climbing, while those on the right would be considered jug hauls just about anywhere else in the world. Despite the old-school bolt-spacing and climbing style, this crag still sees a good amount of traffic. It’s not uncommon to see budding hard men try their hands at Hitchhike the Plane, and expect a constant queue for Westwand on weekends and holidays.

Located adjacent to Maximilianswand and its 50+ routes, this is a good place to spend an entire day, with routes ranging from 5.easy to 5.14. It features a 1-minute approach, ample shade, and some of the routes will stay mostly dry in the rain.

Getting There

From Neuhaus, follow the signs to Krottensee, and then once there, follow the signs to Maximiliansgrotte (well-signed). After passing the parking area for Maximiliansgrotte, continue along the same road (which turns to gravel just as you pass the cave parking) for 2.1km as it twists through the forest. Park on the left at a 4-5 car pullout with a kiosk. You can see Krottenseer Turm through the trees to the east from the kiosk. Follow the obvious trail to the cliff.

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