Traindorfer Wand Rock Climbing
Routes in Traindorfer Wand
|Alter Weg S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Auch nicht schlecht S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Klein aber fein S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Linker Einstieg S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Nachtfröschlein S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Nordverschneidung S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Pavillonkante S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Seil ohne Leben S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Super Girl S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Südriss S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|GPS:||49.862, 11.182 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Shawn Heath on Jul 16, 2013|
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DescriptionThis crag is actually geologically more interesting than it is for climbing. The rock is pocketed in places, but the pockets are extraordinarily formed and relatively sharp. Also, there are some crystals in the rock, as well as chickenheads! Nonetheless, the limestone is very compact and many routes climb features rather than pockets. It gets sun in the after noon, which makes it really nice for cooler days and enjoying sunsets.
The approach is 2 minutes, so one would expect it to be crowded here. When I was there there was nobody else there, and I don't really think this place actually does get crowded. The rock is slightly polished on some routes, but I don't think it's really from the climbers. Rather, the rock is naturally closer to marble - it has naturally low friction.
There are two sections, the left one which is short and located directly below the pavillion, and the right one which is much taller and has more difficult routes.
Getting ThereDrive to Heiligenstadt. Assuming you aproached from Ebermannstadt, about 200m after entering Heiligenstadt head right uphill, following signs to the "Pavillon". Drive to and park at the Pavillon, which is a small wood building. Follow the trail down towards Heiligenstadt to reach the climbing, which is directly below the pavillion.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season