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Routes in Wolfstein

? S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Böser Wolf S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Der Wolf und die sieben Geißlein S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Der mit dem Wolf Tanzt S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Frau Holle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Froschkönig (Frog King) S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Gretel T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hans im Glück S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hänsel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jubiläumsweg S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Max und Moritz S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nordkante S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ostriß T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pumuckl S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rumpelstilzchen S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Rumpelstilzchen's Zorn S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rübezahl T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Schraege Rissverschneidung S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sterntaler S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tapferes Schneiderlein S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Werwolf S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Westpfeiler (West Buttress) S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Westwand (Schneewittchen) T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Witwe Bolte S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wolfgang S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Elevation: 1,868 ft
GPS: 49.717, 11.355 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 1,352 total, 17/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Jul 6, 2011
Admins: Shawn Heath

Description

The name of this crag in English is Wolf Stone. A lot of the routes are named after fairy tales from the Brothers Grimm.
This is a pretty pleasant place to visit, with a nice view from the top. The routes are for the most part very easy, so it's great for pleasure climbers and beginners. There are 25 routes ranging from 5.1 to 5.11b.
The rock is very featured, offering many pockets and cracks and everything to hold onto or stand on. Most of the routes are less than vertical, but there are a few that are overhanging, and this is where the harder routes are located. The rock also faces every direction. On the north side (where climbs such as Hänsel and Gretel are located), the rock does not dry quickly, so if it has rained recently, forget about getting on them. However, the south side will be dry. You can follow this link ( klettern.frankenjura.com/ph… )for an overview of the crag and where the routes are generally located.

Getting There

Getting to this crag can be a little difficult because of its location far away from the Autobahn. The route I took was through lots of villages and is not the same as what I'm describing, so please forgive any errors. Since I live in Erlangen, I'll give you the reverse of the directions we took to get back.
From Erlangen, get on the A73 and travel north to Forchheim (take the Forchheim Süd exit). Continue straight on this road through Forchheim until you see a sign leading you to Ebermannstadt (you will turn right on Bayreuther Straße and cross over the train tracks, then another right to stay on the Bayreuther Straße, then continue without turning). Continue down this road for about 10km, until you can turn right towards Pretzfeld. Continue towards Egloffstein (drive through Pretzfeld, Lützelsdorf, Wannbach, Unterzaunsbach, Schweinthal, and Mostviel). Drive through Egloffstein and continue toward Hammerbühl. Before reaching Hammerbühl, you'll see a sign pointing to the left to go to Geschwand. Take this and go to Geschwand. From Geschwand, take the right leading to Bärnfels. Take Bärnfels Dorfstraße through the town and turn right on Bärnfels Lindenstraße. Take the first dirt road on your left and drive up to the parking. From where you parked, the path heads to the right uphill. Just keep going uphill until you get to the crag.

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