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Routes in Weißenstein

1. Affäre S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
7up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Akku S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Annelore S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Baggi ned S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Beamtenleiter S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Boulderwandl S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Buchenleiter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dampfhammer S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Die Wilden Kletterkerle S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Don’t Worry Be Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eieruhr S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Entsafter S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Für Zwietsch S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Krampfhammer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Leon S Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Lukas S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Maral S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mon Marie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mondnavigation S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nullnummer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Panische Zeiten S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
R 7 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
R3 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
R9 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rechte Kante S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Schlingenweg S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trepperl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Verlobungsweg S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilde 13 S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Zwischenfall S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Elevation: 1,313 ft
GPS: 49.635, 11.532 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Jul 2, 2011
Admins: Shawn Heath
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Description

The most popular climbing area in Frankenjura. There are almost 50 routes here ranging from UIAA 2 to 9+ (5.1 to 5.13a), so there is definitely something for everyone. This is also a very kid friendly place and it even has a nice port-a-potty with a mirror and no stink! Amazing! While there is obviously bound to be some polish on the holds of the most popular crag in the Frankenjura, the routes are all VERY good quality. The rock is very pocketed allowing for lots of great holds.
The left side of the crag is where the easier stuff is. The rock is generally straight up, though some routes are a bit slabby while some others are a bit overhung.
The right side of the crag is quite overhung and is home to some very good 8s (5.11s - Entsafter, Dampfhammer, Wilde 13).
Wolfgang Guellich and Kurt Albert spent some time honing their skills and putting up some routes here. Some good Wolfgang selections are Verlobungsweg (7-), 1. Affäre (7), and Krampfhammer (9). Some good Kurt selections are Panische Zeiten (7+), Dampfhammer (8), and Entsafter (8+).
The name means "White Stone".

The area is also very kid-friendly with the even, grassy area. And you don't even need a stroller for this short approach!

Getting There

Driving here is also relatively uncomplicated. From Nuremberg, take the A9 to the Plech exit (Exit 46). Head towards Plech. After driving through Plech, head towards Neuhaus and stay on this road through Höfen. After leaving Höfen, continue straight for approximately 1.5km until you see a turn-off on the left which is probably full of cars already. You'll also be able to see the rock from here. Drive past the exit of the loop and enter on the Eingang side to park here. Get out and walk straight up to the route you want to do. You may have to wait in line...

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Classic Climbing Routes at Weißenstein

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Matthias Lang
Albuquerque
Matthias Lang   Albuquerque
One of the best crags here with a high concentration of classics. Unfortunately it is also very popular and most of the holds are polished which makes the footwork a bit sketchy. May 19, 2012
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
A little comment on pigtails, since the majority of the routes here use them. If you are going to be running a train on the route (lots of people toproping it), then go ahead and clip two quickdraws in and run the rope through those. If you're just leading, you can either place a quickdraw or two or a locker, or you can plug the rope straight through the pigtail. To do this, take your rope in your hand, reach up and lift the pigtail away from the wall. You will see that on both sides there is an opening. Run your rope through the opening on one side, then the other and your rope will lie safely within the pigtail and it won't come out unless you personally guide it back out or pull your rope through. Jul 3, 2011

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