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Routes in Weißenstein

1. Affäre S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
7up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Akku S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Annelore S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Baggi ned S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Beamtenleiter S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Boulderwandl S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Buchenleiter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dampfhammer S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Die Wilden Kletterkerle S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Don’t Worry Be Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eieruhr S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Entsafter S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Für Zwietsch S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Krampfhammer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Leon S Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Lukas S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Maral S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mon Marie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mondnavigation S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nullnummer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Panische Zeiten S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
R 7 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
R3 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
R9 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rechte Kante S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Schlingenweg S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trepperl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Verlobungsweg S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilde 13 S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Zwischenfall S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Kurt Albert 1979
Page Views: 153 total, 4/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 20, 2014
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

It’s hard to say which is the best line on this magnificent cliff, but this Kurt Albert masterpiece is certainly in the running. With impeccable stone, massive jugs throughout, and perfectly gymnastic movement, the climbing is engaging and memorable from bottom to top. An undercut start leads to easy liebacking along the obvious flake, and a good stance below the looming headwall. A surprisingly sequential series of long, monkey-like swings leads up the steep bulge. The holds just get bigger as the pump builds, resulting in a fantastic pump and a few desperate slaps pulling onto the coral slab.

Location

Begins up the obvious right-facing flake on the far right end of the cliff.

Protection

5 bolts to a high 1 Bolt anchor.

Photos

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
This could be 12a. I never really figured out the non-linear UIAA-to-YDS conversion. I wanted to give it 11d/12a but the database wouldn't allow that. It's UIAA 8, if you can figure out what that means in YDS, good for you! Nov 20, 2014