Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Weißenstein

1. Affäre S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
7up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Akku S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Annelore S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Baggi ned S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Beamtenleiter S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Boulderwandl S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Buchenleiter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dampfhammer S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Die Wilden Kletterkerle S 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Don’t Worry Be Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eieruhr S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Entsafter S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Für Zwietsch S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Krampfhammer S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Leon S Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Lukas S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Maral S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mon Marie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mondnavigation S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nullnummer S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Panische Zeiten S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
R 7 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
R3 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
R9 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rechte Kante S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Schlingenweg S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trepperl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Verlobungsweg S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilde 13 S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Zwischenfall S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Kurt Albert 1980
Page Views: 1,051 total, 14/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Jul 3, 2011
Admins: Shawn Heath

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

One of the classic overhanging, juggy Kurt Albert routes. Very easy to get lost on - so print the picture when you decide to do this. This very pumpy route climbs on nothing but jugs, but due to the million possibilities, you might end up falling anyway. Should you do so, make sure your belayer knows how to do a dynamic belay because slamming into the wall when falling off the top isn't very pleasant. The crux is the pump, but also knowing where to go is key. SPOILER: When at the last bolt, it's best to use the big undercling jub that you can see from the ground with your right hand, then swing up to the jug immediately right of the bolt with your left, then pinch the left side of that same hold with your right and step to the left. That'll get you out of the overhang which makes clipping that 5th bolt difficult. Climb up MUCH easier rock to the top.

Location

Furthest route to the right. The start is marked with the name and an arrow pointing straight up. Climb this up and around to the first bolt. Study the photo before getting on!

Protection

5 bolts to anchor
Matthias Lang
Albuquerque
  5.11a
Matthias Lang   Albuquerque
  5.11a
Sweet route. Hardest part is definitely to figure out which jugs to grab. Some of the obvious ones are crap, some hidden/small ones are way better than they look. May 19, 2012