Rabenfels Rock Climbing
|GPS:||49.643, 11.599 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Nov 25, 2014|
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DescriptionThis unique, free-standing pillar of limestone juts out of the forest like a watchtower, guaranteeing stellar position and exposure for any climber who seeks it out. It is best known for a pair of Wolfgang Gullich sport routes, but virtually all the lines on this formation offer excellent rock and movement.
This an old school area, with many routes originally established as aid lines as far back as the 1950s. It offers a more adventurous feel and secluded position than most of the surround clip-up crags. There are several moderate lines to the summit, including some that can be done in multiple pitches. With grades ranging from 5+ to 10, this crag really does have something for everyone.
There are routes on all sides of the tower, but most of the routes are on the exposed south face which bakes in the sun on clear days. The routes on the east and west faces are well-shaded by adjacent trees.
Getting ThereOn the road from Auerbach to Neuhaus (or vice versa) lies a small yellow church, just a short distance north of Lehnershof. To reach Rabenfels, head east down an unmarked forest road that leaves the highway about 100 yds south of this church. Follow the road into the forest and park at the first road junction. There should be an olden wooden sign at the road junction pointing the way to Rabenfels. Follow the sign, walking up the left road fork, until the white tower appears on the left. A good trail switchbacks up the hill to the cliff.
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