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a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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Disneyland 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 155'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Dave Craft, Eric Stern, 1959
Page Views: 9,031
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 23, 2006
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Jean Aschenbrenner traversing under the roof at th...

Description 

The classic 5.6 route in the Nears. Short approach and very popular.

Start about 30' left of Broken Sling, at a large open book capped by a roof. There is a big tree near the start of the climb.

P1: Climb up the right face of the open book, angling up and right across the many horizontals, past several old fixed pins. Make an awkward move around the nose to a cramped belay. 5.6, 45'.

P2: Move left and climb a steep corner to a roof, passing more old fixed pins. A second belay is optional here, or traverse right under the roof and continue to the top. 5.5, 110'.

Pitches 1 and 2 may be combined, avoiding the cramped belay, but it's quite difficult to avoid severe rope drag if you do this, especially the first time. Long runners, double ropes, and two-way radios are recommended if you want to do the climb in one pitch.

Walk climbers' right along the clifftop until just before the road, where you can easily scramble down to the base of the cliff and back to your packs.


Protection 

Lots of old fixed pins, plus a light rack of nuts and cams to 2".



Photos of Disneyland Slideshow Add Photo
Eric Januszkiewicz (14) on 1st pitch
Eric Januszkiewicz (14) on 1st pitch
Disney Land Pitch 1
Disney Land Pitch 1
cruising to the top.  as fun as any of the rides @ Disneyland
cruising to the top. as fun as any of the rides @...
The 1st pitch of Disneyland - practice your anchor-turnover techniques, because  the belay is cramped!
BETA PHOTO: The 1st pitch of Disneyland - practice your anchor...
Disneyland's first pitch
Disneyland's first pitch
Eric on 2nd pitch (we broke it into 3 pitches to avoid communication problems)
Eric on 2nd pitch (we broke it into 3 pitches to a...
View of Disneyland from below. P1 goes left to right on the prominent face on the left, with an optional belay after the mantle. P2 goes up the corner above until the last roof, then traverses right to easy face climbing to the top.
BETA PHOTO: View of Disneyland from below. P1 goes left to rig...
Comments on Disneyland Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 11, 2012
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 1, 2006

Long runners are key. I recall doing this a while back in 1 pitch with a beginner rack with only 2 slings and having enormous drag issues at the top of this climb. Despite this, nice climb.

By jeremyadams
Jan 5, 2007

Double ropes, although still calling for extending placements, make this an excellent one-pitch climb. If you have occasion to try the whole route in one pitch, it's a great place to hone your double rope technique.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jan 28, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Very nice lead, and doubles are definitely a plus. I was a little concerned about finding a placement to protect the belay anchor starting off the second pitch, but found a great slot for a gold Ballnut.

I think this is also the route where I found a copperhead staring out at me from the horizontal where I was planning to place a green Camalot on P2. I ran it out instead.

JL

By JoeLeiper
Feb 19, 2008

In the spring of 1978 I took a friend up Disneyland for his first climb. He managed the first pitch okay, but ran out of gas on the second. Another friend who was with us came up the easy path from the north and joined me at the belay atop the route. He had a six-pack which we began while our pal thrashed on the face below. (He claimed his jeans were too tight to make a high foothold.) After a few minutes it was clear he couldn't finish the pitch, so we tried dragging him up. He was pretty heavy and we were laughing too hard too make much progress--we'd lift him a few feet then crack up, lose our grip, and drop him. He wasn't very happy. Defeated, I tied him off and we relaxed with our beers, enjoying the view while he swore at us. We encouraged him to rest and recover his strength; he swore louder. Then we heard rustling in the woods behind. A very large guy and his girlfriend appeared. I offered him a beer if he pulled on the rope. "I was in the Marines!" he declared, and swiftly drew our friend up to large holds. The Marine happily went on his way with a cold one and our pal, scowling and scraped, struggled up to us. He declined an opportunity to top rope Dirty Gertie.

By Jeffrey Dunn
Administrator
Apr 14, 2008

It makes no sense to belay in the notch following the awkward mantle. Instead, move up into the open book/corner above and belay from there on a bomber piton backed up with nuts. You can then extend down to a better stance which allows you to watch your second on the face below. Really great climbing if you have your logistics sorted out.

By John Peterson
Apr 14, 2008

Long runners. One pitch. Long runners!

All of the belay stances are sucky - avoid them! There's also communication issues. If you're on top it's really hard to hear someone at the belay above the mantle. Much easier if they are on the ground and can walk out to where they can see you.

One of the best routes in the Gunks but it definitely gets more than it's share of gumbys. I was standing at the bottom once waiting for the belayer to leave the stance. Nothing was happening other than shouts that neither one could figure out. Walked up to the top and there was a guy sitting there at a complete loss - he had dropped his belay device and didn't know how to set a belay without it. They would have probably been up there all night if I hadn't come by!

By GMBurns
Aug 4, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

Fun climb, though the Swain guide has two photos of the route, and one is incorrect. The incorrect photo shows the climb going left at the third roof, whereas the route traverses right at this point.

Double ropes make this a good one-pitch route.

By Nate Miller
From: Chicago, IL
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

If you feel like extending most of your pro and running it out, doing it as one pitch with a single rope works just fine. Nice route!

By JSH
Administrator
Oct 13, 2009

I think the crucial part about extending is this: use VERY long runners (like shoulder-length + another) and once you've done the mantle and made a move left -- turn back and manually flip your rope towards you over the roof below. Otherwise it'll stay caught in the turn. Makes the upper stuff much nicer.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Sep 4, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Followed this today (likely to lead it someday soon). It's my new favorite Gunks climb. FUN!

By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Sep 26, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13

Do it in one pitch, just make sure you extend your slings at the start. I've never seen so many pins on one climb at the Gunks. I think I used a total of 5 pieces of gears for the entire climb.

By BrianRH
Aug 17, 2011

for what it is worth. Climbing Magazine rated this the best 5.6 climb in North America a few years ago. Not sure about that (better than Shockleys, High E and Madame G?), but it is very nice.

By David Stowe
Aug 18, 2011

Its not even remotely close to the best 5.6 in the Gunks let alone the country. It is a nice climb and fun, but hardly rates that high.

By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Long runners (48" or so) for the Nose area and you can easily get this in one pitch. Good fun, but def not the best 5.6 in the Gunks.

By kenr
Nov 11, 2012

There's no need for the cramped belay of the first pitch (if doing it in two pitches). As Wormly81 pointed out, just continue a few feet higher past the cramped alcove to a solid-looking piton in a horizontal crack which easily takes additional pro to back up the piton.