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5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 274 ● South Face Aug 8, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Such a lame route, and I didn’t even have crowds to contend with on a Friday morning. Only did it as a partner check with a new climber. Led all the pitches. Approach across the talus was annoying, would’ve been worth it for a better route. The climb itself was boring except for the last pitch if you take the central “flakes line,” which has a few moves of actual climbing. Gear was plentiful; I only used a green BD nut and a rack from 0.4–3, placed minimally. Rope drag on P2 needs managing. Rainier views the whole way. The best rappels were the two from the start of the climb back to the basin: if you’re a dialed party of two, this is faster than reversing the scramble. Tie knots. Loose rock wasn’t an issue. Added mileage with a detour to Snow Lake for a swim, so hard to say car-to-car, but base to summit was 90 minutes. Less than two hours to the base from TH. Trad 4 pitches Central-W Casca… > … > Tooth > Summer-Fall (rock)
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 212 ● Sleepwalk Jul 20, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Climbed this to get to the Ant's Line anchor. Does feel a bit like a sleep walk. Gear can be sparse at times but the climbing is easy enough. Has a small crux but it was no issue. Trad Gunks > Trapps > i. High E
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 689 ● Ants' Line Jul 20, 2025 · TR. After setting up anchors from Sleepwalk, we TR'd it to retrieve cams and work the moves. Was super sweaty and that didn't help but I was able to power through the crux roof. Even on TR, this felt much harder than Third Pillar of Dana (5.10 at 10k altitude). Trad Gunks > Trapps > i. High E
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 689 ● Ants' Line Jul 20, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Jeff suggested I lead it. I got just below the triangle roof crux and had a hard time placing a piece of gear while laybacking. Humidity was high and hands were slippery. Doubt I'd ever want to lead this, but if I did, place more gear lower down. Trad Gunks > Trapps > i. High E
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 185 ● The Spring-Winter Jul 20, 2025 · 1 pitch. TR. Anchor was already set for TR so I gave it a burn. Did it cleanly and went through the motions on where I'd place gear. Would not want to lead as it's really thin pro lower down. Trad 2 pitches Gunks > Trapps > j. The Yellow Wall &…
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 188 ● Bold-Ville Jul 20, 2025 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. Led P1. Very delicate foot moves. Save a #1 for the end of the arch. Almost wish I didn't bring my cheap gym shoes but it was good. Clipped the fixed anchor tat and traversed right awkwardly to the chains which had an uncomfortable down-step. Trad 2 pitches Gunks > Trapps > j. The Yellow Wall &…
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 702 ● Something Interesting Jul 20, 2025 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. Combined P1 and P2 all the way to GT ledge. Felt like a fun climb. Trad 2 pitches Gunks > Trapps > e. The Mac Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 615 ● Strictly From Nowhere Jul 20, 2025 · 1 pitch. TR. TR'd after Jeff led it. First climb of the day. Felt nice. Trad 2 pitches Gunks > Trapps > d. Strictly - The Cei…
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 52 ● Northeast Buttress Jul 8, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. 15.6mi hike in to base of glacier. Thigh deep river crossing, then dense, steep alder field. Easy snow bridge crossing. Roped up first 2 pitches, then scrambled a long while, then swapped leads with Will until summit. Single rack from tiny totems to #1 w/ nuts and set of tricams (very valuable to have). Bivy on summit. Water available by downscrambling west and then turning left to snow patch. Two rappels, then scrambling wet rock and then two more rappels to descend the south side gully. Eventually exited to a snowfield and then a burned out trail. Monotonous descent until making it to the flat trail. Camped at Bridge Creek after 8000ft descent, then next day to High Bridge camp where shuttle took us to Stehekin where we grabbed ferry to car we left in Chelan for shuttling. Trad, Alpine Northwest Region > … > N Cascades > Mt Goode
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 602 ● Third Pillar, Regular Route Jun 13, 2025 · Follow. Guided by Bernd. 8am start. Perfect temps. Hike up, down the gully, and across the snow was tough due to altitude (3hrs). Used microspikes and very happy to have a light ice axe to cross. Climb was 3hrs, but we took our time. Lower pitches were harder and less fun than the upper pitches. Hike out was 90min. Returned to car at 4:30pm. If I did it again, would rappel in with a long rope and skip the first two pitches and gully hike + snow crossing. Trad 5 pitches Eastern Sierra > … > Dana Plateau > Third Pillar
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 120 ● The Nameless Tower Apr 18, 2025 · TR. TR'd it a second time and got the moves dialed so I didn't have to hang. Clipping the roof bolt seems to be the hardest move. There's a way to wedge your right hip into the groove to take a semi rest before pulling up the rest of the way. Sport Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Woods Group > (a) Midland
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 120 ● The Nameless Tower Apr 18, 2025 · TR. TR set up from anchor on nearby route. Many stances for no-hands rest. Very bouldery. Sport Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Woods Group > (a) Midland
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 110 ● Sweet and Sticky Apr 18, 2025 · TR. Did another TR lap on it, but this time to the second anchor. The next few moves after the first anchor are notably harder. Sport Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Woods Group > (a) Midland
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 110 ● Sweet and Sticky Apr 18, 2025 · TR. Toproped it with Patrick. Didn't feel like leading. Made it to first anchor. Sport Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Woods Group > (a) Midland
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 132 ● Silent Running Oct 3, 2024 · 6 pitches. Lead / Fell/Hung. Easy approach, ~30min. Led P1, 3, 5. Runout was real but didn't bother me. Toes hurt from the climbing. Used 65m tag line (in bag) in addition to the rope. Slipped on an easy part on P3 because I wasn't focusing. All anchors are fixe chain, so just bring a master carabiner for anchor and use a locker draw for rappel anchor instead of quad. Patrick re-did P1 on follow because he forgot the backpack. Took 4hrs for both of us to top P6 with the delay. 2hrs to rappel. Trad 7 pitches Northwest Region > … > Darrington > Three O'clock Rock
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 90 ● Poppy's Peril Jun 28, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Rained yesterday, sun today. Dry route. Used mtn bikes which was an excellent idea. 50min to turnoff. Did not need a belay for the approach pitch even though it was wet. P1 is a walk (led). P2 not memorable. P3 had one notable move (led). Linked P4/5 which was a good idea. Manage rope drag by skipping bolts and extending draws. Rappelling and belaying were more exhausting. Simul this next time. Bring long tag line to skip raps? Mtn biking down was 20min. Sport 5 pitches Central-W Casca… > … > Exit 34; Middle… > Otter Falls
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 171 ● I Remember Drooling Jun 23, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Spectacular juggy route. Sharp jugs, good rests. First move is all power but move quickly. Very well bolted. At the second roof I moved left and found it just fine. Most committing move felt like the end where the mega jugs disappear but there are still good holds. Clipping the anchor was most committing. Loved it. Sport Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Mt Washington > Amazonia
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 115 ● Tropicana Jun 23, 2024 · TR. Fell a bunch on TR for this, but where I fell I realized I was doing the sequence wrong. Once I got it right, it wasn't much trouble. A lot of committing moves on lead but the route is as well bolted as it can be. Sport Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Mt Washington > Amazonia
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 105 ● Radioactive Decay Jun 23, 2024 · TR. TR'd it clean first time without much stress. I should lead it next time. Sport Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Mt Washington > Amazonia
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 182 ● Sodflesh Jun 23, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. Did the route a second time for a warmup and led it clean. Great movement. Better than the rating suggests. Sport Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Mt Washington > Amazonia
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 182 ● Sodflesh Jun 23, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Did as a warmup and fell for the first time because my head wasn't in the right spot. Sport Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Mt Washington > Amazonia
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 407 ● Mockery Jun 15, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. 5min steep, easy hike. Well bolted. Amazing variety of moves. Very heady, especially the last move. Sport Yosemite NP > … > Lower Merced Ri… > Au. Five & Dime Cliff
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 339 ● Byzantium Apr 21, 2024 · TR. Did not feel like leading today so I TR'd. Good movement on this. Sport Southern Nevada > … > First Pullout (… > Civilization Crag
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 564 ● Manifest Destiny Apr 21, 2024 · TR. Did not feel like leading today so I TR'd. Felt like a soft 5.9. Sport Southern Nevada > … > First Pullout (… > Civilization Crag
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 414 ● The Fall of Rome Apr 21, 2024 · TR. Did not feel like leading today so I TR'd. Very committing moves early on which I'd stick clip if I led. Sport Southern Nevada > … > First Pullout (… > Civilization Crag
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 432 ● Mongol Hoarde Apr 20, 2024 · TR. Did not feel like leading today so I TR'd. Felt like a soft 5.9. Sport Southern Nevada > … > First Pullout (… > Civilization Crag
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 1,842 ● Birdland Apr 19, 2024 · 5 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Led P2 offwidth and P4. Managed roped drag well on P4, found good gear. P5 not as hard as people say. P1 was easy and boring in comparison to it all. Rappels were very easy and pleasant. Trad 6 pitches Southern Nevada > … > Pine Creek Canyon > Brass Wall
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 65 ● Going Nuts Apr 18, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Started P1 ~30ft up by solo-ing. Self-anchored my belay at a pinch in the rock. P1 was very fun. P2 was great and a nice puzzle managing rope drag. made gear anchor in crack above the trees which avoided rope drag. Trad 2 pitches Southern Nevada > … > Oak Creek Canyon > Solar Slab - Upper Tier
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 361 ● Beulah's Book Apr 18, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Led P1 and P3/4. P1 was mental crux given it was warmup. Made gear anchor below arete. Did P2 var. Following P2 was tough, only needed to lieback one move though. P3/4 combo was easy runout, managed rope drag well w/ good chickenheads. Used boulder at the top as anchor w/ rope instead of bolts. Trad 3 pitches Southern Nevada > … > Oak Creek Canyon > Solar Slab - Lower Tier
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 17 ● Be a Stay-at-Home Astronaut Mar 17, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Was lame Trad Central-W Casca… > … 1 2 > Planet Index > Lookout jr
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 331 ● Wild Turkey Mar 17, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Enjoyed it, found a little harder than Senior Citizens, but not by much. Trad, TR Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Lookout Point Area > Private Idaho
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 163 ● More than 24 Dandelions Mar 16, 2024 · Follow. Patrick led. Seems to be the 2nd pitch of Oyaji? First move off the semi-hanging belay is very precarious. Trad, TR Central-W Casca… > … 1 2 > Planet Index > Lookout jr
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 143 ● Oyaji Milkman Loves the Sea Mar 16, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Led this one. Found the slabby section protected by a bolt to be mentally the crux. Had a little bit of everything Trad Central-W Casca… > … 1 2 > Planet Index > Lookout jr
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 650 ● Senior Citizens in Space Mar 16, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Stellar route. I ran it out on the layback n a big way given how comfortable I was on it. Trad, TR Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Lookout Point Area > Private Idaho
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 27 ● The Bergshrund Mar 16, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Decent for an easy warmup Trad, TR Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Lookout Point Area > Hag Crag
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 290 ● Vantage Point Feb 19, 2023 · TR. Someone had a rope up when we planned to lead. TR'd it. Was super windy today so I wasn't enjoying it as much. Climbing is great, but felt some flexing in the rocks. Crux is the bulge at the top and remembering to look right to clip. Sport Central Region > … 1 > Sunshine Wall > (c) King Pins

● South Face

Central-W Casca… > … > Tooth > Summer-Fall (rock)

274

5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 4 pitches

Aug 8, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Such a lame route, and I didn’t even have crowds to contend with on a Friday morning. Only did it as a partner check with a new climber. Led all the pitches. Approach across the talus was annoying, would’ve been worth it for a better route. The climb itself was boring except for the last pitch if you take the central “flakes line,” which has a few moves of actual climbing. Gear was plentiful; I only used a green BD nut and a rack from 0.4–3, placed minimally. Rope drag on P2 needs managing. Rainier views the whole way. The best rappels were the two from the start of the climb back to the basin: if you’re a dialed party of two, this is faster than reversing the scramble. Tie knots. Loose rock wasn’t an issue. Added mileage with a detour to Snow Lake for a swim, so hard to say car-to-car, but base to summit was 90 minutes. Less than two hours to the base from TH.

● Sleepwalk

Gunks > Trapps > i. High E

212

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

Jul 20, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Climbed this to get to the Ant's Line anchor. Does feel a bit like a sleep walk. Gear can be sparse at times but the climbing is easy enough. Has a small crux but it was no issue.

● Ants' Line

Gunks > Trapps > i. High E

689

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

Jul 20, 2025 · TR. After setting up anchors from Sleepwalk, we TR'd it to retrieve cams and work the moves. Was super sweaty and that didn't help but I was able to power through the crux roof. Even on TR, this felt much harder than Third Pillar of Dana (5.10 at 10k altitude).

● Ants' Line

Gunks > Trapps > i. High E

689

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

Jul 20, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Jeff suggested I lead it. I got just below the triangle roof crux and had a hard time placing a piece of gear while laybacking. Humidity was high and hands were slippery. Doubt I'd ever want to lead this, but if I did, place more gear lower down.

● The Spring-Winter

Gunks > Trapps > j. The Yellow Wall &…

185

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches

Jul 20, 2025 · 1 pitch. TR. Anchor was already set for TR so I gave it a burn. Did it cleanly and went through the motions on where I'd place gear. Would not want to lead as it's really thin pro lower down.

● Bold-Ville

Gunks > Trapps > j. The Yellow Wall &…

188

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches

Jul 20, 2025 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. Led P1. Very delicate foot moves. Save a #1 for the end of the arch. Almost wish I didn't bring my cheap gym shoes but it was good. Clipped the fixed anchor tat and traversed right awkwardly to the chains which had an uncomfortable down-step.

● Something Interesting

Gunks > Trapps > e. The Mac Wall

702

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches

Jul 20, 2025 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. Combined P1 and P2 all the way to GT ledge. Felt like a fun climb.

● Strictly From Nowhere

Gunks > Trapps > d. Strictly - The Cei…

615

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches

Jul 20, 2025 · 1 pitch. TR. TR'd after Jeff led it. First climb of the day. Felt nice.

● Northeast Buttress

Northwest Region > … > N Cascades > Mt Goode

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine

Jul 8, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. 15.6mi hike in to base of glacier. Thigh deep river crossing, then dense, steep alder field. Easy snow bridge crossing. Roped up first 2 pitches, then scrambled a long while, then swapped leads with Will until summit. Single rack from tiny totems to #1 w/ nuts and set of tricams (very valuable to have). Bivy on summit. Water available by downscrambling west and then turning left to snow patch. Two rappels, then scrambling wet rock and then two more rappels to descend the south side gully. Eventually exited to a snowfield and then a burned out trail. Monotonous descent until making it to the flat trail. Camped at Bridge Creek after 8000ft descent, then next day to High Bridge camp where shuttle took us to Stehekin where we grabbed ferry to car we left in Chelan for shuttling.

● Third Pillar, Regular Route

Eastern Sierra > … > Dana Plateau > Third Pillar

602

5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches

Jun 13, 2025 · Follow. Guided by Bernd. 8am start. Perfect temps. Hike up, down the gully, and across the snow was tough due to altitude (3hrs). Used microspikes and very happy to have a light ice axe to cross. Climb was 3hrs, but we took our time. Lower pitches were harder and less fun than the upper pitches. Hike out was 90min. Returned to car at 4:30pm. If I did it again, would rappel in with a long rope and skip the first two pitches and gully hike + snow crossing.

● The Nameless Tower

Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Woods Group > (a) Midland

120

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport

Apr 18, 2025 · TR. TR'd it a second time and got the moves dialed so I didn't have to hang. Clipping the roof bolt seems to be the hardest move. There's a way to wedge your right hip into the groove to take a semi rest before pulling up the rest of the way.

● The Nameless Tower

Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Woods Group > (a) Midland

120

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport

Apr 18, 2025 · TR. TR set up from anchor on nearby route. Many stances for no-hands rest. Very bouldery.

● Sweet and Sticky

Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Woods Group > (a) Midland

110

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport

Apr 18, 2025 · TR. Did another TR lap on it, but this time to the second anchor. The next few moves after the first anchor are notably harder.

● Sweet and Sticky

Central-W Casca… > … 1 > Woods Group > (a) Midland

110

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport

Apr 18, 2025 · TR. Toproped it with Patrick. Didn't feel like leading. Made it to first anchor.

● Silent Running

Northwest Region > … > Darrington > Three O'clock Rock

132

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 7 pitches

Oct 3, 2024 · 6 pitches. Lead / Fell/Hung. Easy approach, ~30min. Led P1, 3, 5. Runout was real but didn't bother me. Toes hurt from the climbing. Used 65m tag line (in bag) in addition to the rope. Slipped on an easy part on P3 because I wasn't focusing. All anchors are fixe chain, so just bring a master carabiner for anchor and use a locker draw for rappel anchor instead of quad. Patrick re-did P1 on follow because he forgot the backpack. Took 4hrs for both of us to top P6 with the delay. 2hrs to rappel.

● Poppy's Peril

Central-W Casca… > … > Exit 34; Middle… > Otter Falls

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 5 pitches

Jun 28, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Rained yesterday, sun today. Dry route. Used mtn bikes which was an excellent idea. 50min to turnoff. Did not need a belay for the approach pitch even though it was wet. P1 is a walk (led). P2 not memorable. P3 had one notable move (led). Linked P4/5 which was a good idea. Manage rope drag by skipping bolts and extending draws. Rappelling and belaying were more exhausting. Simul this next time. Bring long tag line to skip raps? Mtn biking down was 20min.

● I Remember Drooling