Type: Trad, 550 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Randal Grandstaff, Dave Anderson, 1979
Page Views: 16,225 total · 87/month
Shared By: Matt Conrad on Oct 7, 2003
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This is a great route with varied climbing. Approach as for Solar Slab Gully, but head left and along a ledge system before reaching the base of the gully. Squeeze past a couple of trees to the base of the first pitch.

P1- (5.6) Go up a short dihedral and step left at a chockstone. Continue up past a bolt and up the face to a nice belay ledge below the chimney. It also looked possible to step into an easy chimney shortly after the bolt which leads to the same belay ledge.

P2- Enter the obvious chimney and climb up past a bolt (5.9). Exit the chimney, and head up the great dihedral above (5.9). Step left at the top to a two bolt belay.

P3- Climb up and right across the slab above (5.5 no pro) and continue up through intermittent cracks to the large terrace below Solar Slab. This pitch was a full 60m.

Either descend Solar Slab Gully from here or finish the day on Solar Slab.


Take pro to 4".


My favorite Solar Slab start. The 5.9 section is short and well protected - sort of a mini-Epinphrine. The layback is really sweet too. It's really just a 1 pitch climb though - nothing of note on the 1st or 3rd pitches.

John Mar 8, 2004
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
One #4 Camalot (or equivalent) provides additional reassurance while pulling through the awkward crux on the second pitch. Nov 29, 2004
Try the arete variuation to the second pitch. It goes out to the left arete (bolted) and returns to the crack above the chimney crux move then takes the standard line up the lie back. It's about 5.9 with some bolts, a 2" cam, two slings on horns Apr 3, 2005
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
Expanding on the previous comment-- there is a mostly independent variation immediately to the left of the standard route. Begin in a small dihedral just to the left of the big corner. A few feet below the roof, step to the right to reach easy face climbing in the vicinity of the bolt on the standard route. From here, go straight up, then follow the arete for pitch 2. I don't know any FA details, but I refer to this route as "Beulah's Pamphlet" because it is smaller than the book... Apr 4, 2005
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
Indeed the bomb bay crux section on p2 protects well with an old style #4 Camalot. I found the new style C4 Camalot #4 to be a little on the small side and wished I had brought my C4 #5 instead. Sep 20, 2006
Danny Inman
Danny Inman   Arvada
This is a great route. The second pitch is long and classic. We climbed this to get to solar slab. The combination makes for a very memorable climb. Oct 10, 2006
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
This is a great route. If you liked Epinephrine - or you're thinking of doing Epinephrine - you should definitely try this route. It's very fun, and is easier than it looks.

We did this route as a start to Sunflower and thought the linkup was great fun. Apr 26, 2007
Andrew Carson
Wilson, WY
Andrew Carson   Wilson, WY
There's a bolt just as you start the third pitch, and, although pro is not easy and obvious, we got in a few good pieces on this section and thought it pretty decent for the level of difficulty. Jan 31, 2009
Chris Winter
Portland, OR
Chris Winter   Portland, OR
The 2nd pitch is fantastic with amazing views under your feet from the bomber jugs at the top of the pitch. Don't wuss out and take the bolted face climb variation - climb the natural line up the chimney. Its spectacular and not that hard. Mar 30, 2009
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
This is a very good route. I would say that the 2nd pitch might be one of the best 5.9 pitches in the park. A new style #4 Camalot does protect the chimney moves quite well if seated correctly. Use runners, duh, or have rope drag. Feb 26, 2012
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9+ PG13
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
  5.9+ PG13
I was expecting anchors at the top of pitch one but the anchors which are there appear to be a bit out of the way. Belayed off of a couple giant slung blocks at the base of the arete utilizing the tag line.

The arete variation was safe and quite fun I thought! The dihedral is extremely intimidating but protects very well and really is 5.9. There are face holds which you can utilize and I even got a few no hands rests. You only need to lieback a few moves if you're not comfortable with it. A #4 Camalot protects the top of the lieback. Absolutely fantastic pitch and one I would go back for!

The third pitch is very difficult to protect but the climbing is easy. Be ready to slot some horizontal nuts down low 'cause it is basically all that is there. It protects much easier up top. Bring lots of slings to avoid horrendous rope drag. Climb past the first set of anchors up another 50 feet to a comfortable bolted belay atop the route. Feb 18, 2014
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
for the P2 arete variation, held off on placing the C4 #4 just to see if that would really be needed. got to the top of that pitch still toting it. tho one could place a #4, there are usu other size pro avail nearby. wouldn't bring a #4 next time for the P2 arete var. rack of doubles to #2 plus one #3 would suffice. all the lighter if continuing up Solar Slab Jan 21, 2015
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
for the original wide P2, one C4 #4 works fine. can actually along the direst stretch for many placements. don't really need a #5

had first done the P2 arete var before when climbing with a partner that happened to prefer face climbing. now that i've done both, they're both excellent, each with its own kind of exciting exposure. both well worth doing Feb 14, 2015
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Better to belay P2 from directly below the chimney on chockstones then way out right at the bolted anchor. Nov 2, 2015
Arin Earl
Las Vegas, NV 89085
Arin Earl   Las Vegas, NV 89085
Route has new hardware Jun 29, 2016
Vikram Sahney
Seattle, WA
Vikram Sahney   Seattle, WA
Video showing Beulah's Book to Heliotrope. Fun climb.

youtu.be/hdKrZJYX6Ko Sep 1, 2016
Pawel Janowski
Pawel Janowski   WA
(gear beta alert) I split P2 in two to avoid rope drag on the upper crux (wasn't bold enought to extend my draws in the chimney) and because it seemed like I was lacking cams. Actually the second crux is much easier than it looks. Takes green, purple and 2 red C4s. Mar 6, 2018
Pat Light
Charlottesville, VA
Pat Light   Charlottesville, VA
Extraordinary second pitch. Three-dimensional, long, engaging. Compelling movement up an aesthetic feature. Really sends a breeze around the ol' marbles, too!

The other two pitches aren't bad at all. Last pitch is probably PG, but it's a romp. Nov 9, 2018