Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Art Gran, Jim Andress, 1959
Page Views: 19,563 total · 111/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

The large roof on the first pitch is the main reason to climb this route. It's a blast!

P1: Climb to the right of a small tiered overhang near the ground. Wander up, aiming generally left towards the right-facing dihedral (the original route belayed here), then head up steep rock into the left-facing corner/roof. Work up into the roof, then escape right to the bolts (and protect your follower(s)!). Belay at bolts. 5.7, 100'.

P2: Follow the crack above to a right-facing dihedral and a sling belay at a tree. 5.4, 70'.

P2: Or for a better, more consistent 2nd pitch, follow the thin crack up to a tiny tree, then move up and left on hero holds through small overhangs to the top. Good pro, fun moves, more exposure (5.6, courtesy of Larry Hamilton).

Rap the route with one rope. There are bolts at the P1 belay.

Protection

Standard Rack.

Location

The Strictly's access trail is where the East Trapps Connector trail meets the carriage road, about a 5-min. walk from the Uberfall.

This route starts almost directly above the access trail's end, on the face 25' left of the right-facing dihedral of Shockley's Ceiling, directly below a small tiered overhang.

Link-ups

Strictly from Nowhere itself is classic enough - but there are several link-up opportunities that add even more value:

1) For a more-challenging start, climb the initial corner of Oscar and Charlie, just to the left, then aim towards the Strictly roof.

2) After the first pitch, you can traverse up and right (5.4) and belay at pins to link to the third pitch of Shockley's Ceiling, if the crowds allow.

Photos