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Strictly From Nowhere

Name: Strictly From Nowhere
Rating: 3.4

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in d. Strictly - The Ceiling

L › R R › L A › Z

	Anguish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Ceiling Without, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Ceiling, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
	Gaston T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Midnight Cowboy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Synchronized Sphincters T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
	Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Yesterday's Lemonade T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

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Type:	Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Art Gran, Jim Andress, 1959
Page Views:	24,492 total · 105/month
Shared By:	Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The large roof on the first pitch is the main reason to climb this route. It's a blast!

P1: Climb to the right of a small tiered overhang near the ground. Wander up, aiming generally left towards the right-facing dihedral (the original route belayed here), then head up steep rock into the left-facing corner/roof. Work up into the roof, then escape right to the bolts (and protect your follower(s)!). Belay at bolts. 5.7, 100'.

P2: Follow the crack above to a right-facing dihedral and a sling belay at a tree. 5.4, 70'.

P2: Or for a better, more consistent 2nd pitch, follow the thin crack up to a tiny tree, then move up and left on hero holds through small overhangs to the top. Good pro, fun moves, more exposure 5.6.

Rap the route with one rope. There are bolts at the P1 belay.

Protection

Standard Rack.

Location

The Strictly's access trail is where the East Trapps Connector trail meets the carriage road, about a 5-min. walk from the Uberfall.

This route starts almost directly above the access trail's end, on the face 25' left of the right-facing dihedral of The Ceiling, directly below a small tiered overhang.

Link-ups

Strictly from Nowhere itself is classic enough - but there are several link-up opportunities that add even more value:

1) For a more-challenging start, climb the initial corner of Oscar and Charlie, just to the left, then aim towards the Strictly roof.

2) After the first pitch, you can traverse up and right (5.4) and belay at pins to link to the third pitch of The Ceiling, if the crowds allow.