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Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Art Gran, Jim Andress, 1959
Page Views: 15,574 total, 109/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


334 Opinions

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Description

The large roof on the first pitch is the main reason to climb this route. It's a blast!

P1: Climb to the right of a small tiered overhang near the ground. Wander up, aiming generally left towards the right-facing dihedral (the original route belayed here), then head up steep rock into the left-facing corner/roof. Work up into the roof, then escape right to the bolts (and protect your follower(s)!). Belay at bolts. 5.7, 100'.

P2: Follow the crack above to a right-facing dihedral and a sling belay at a tree. 5.4, 70'.

P2: Or for a better, more consistent 2nd pitch, follow the thin crack up to a tiny tree, then move up and left on hero holds through small overhangs to the top. Good pro, fun moves, more exposure (5.6, courtesy of Larry Hamilton).

Rap the route with one rope. There are bolts at the P1 belay.

Protection

Standard Rack.

Location

The Strictly's access trail is where the East Trapps Connector trail meets the carriage road, about a 5-min. walk from the Uberfall.

This route starts almost directly above the access trail's end, on the face 25' left of the right-facing dihedral of Shockley's Ceiling, directly below a small tiered overhang.

Link-ups

Strictly from Nowhere itself is classic enough - but there are several link-up opportunities that add even more value:

1) For a more-challenging start, climb the initial corner of Oscar and Charlie, just to the left, then aim towards the Strictly roof.

2) After the first pitch, you can traverse up and right (5.4) and belay at pins to link to the third pitch of Shockley's Ceiling, if the crowds allow.

Dan Katz  
 
The flared roof-crack just before committing to the crux moves can be protected with a confidence-inspiring pink tricam. Jun 16, 2017
SethG  
Kurt, after the bolted belay station at the end of pitch one of Strictly's, you then can trend up and right over easy territory to join Shockley's.

If you go any higher on Strictly's (i.e., to the GT Ledge), you will have passed the crux ceiling on Shockley's.

Perhaps the confusion comes from the fact that the initial long pitch on Strictly's can be broken up into two pitches, and in the guidebook it is described as two pitches if you start in the Oscar's Variation corner.

Hope this helps. The link-up of Strictly's into Shockley's is IMHO one of the very best moderate routes in the Gunks. Nov 2, 2016
Kurt G.
Reading, PA
  5.7
Kurt G.   Reading, PA
  5.7
What's the best way to link up into Shockley's for P3? I read under the details that some people are doing P1 and P2 then into Shockley's but the description says to link up after P1. which is better and easier to find? Nov 1, 2016
Medic741
Red Hook, New York
  5.6
Medic741   Red Hook, New York
  5.6
Crux moves can be well protected with .4 C4. Well protected climb with interesting moves, but not as "safe" falls as Shockley's, I'd try Shockley's first if you're worried about the grade. Shockleys didn't feel any harder than this route. Oct 16, 2015
Systematic
  5.7
Systematic  
  5.7
Definitely start with Oscar and Charlie. The original beginning wanders a lot lending itself to rope drag issues and there's nothing interesting about it. Oct 12, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
  5.7+
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
  5.7+
Just use your feet well and keep pulling. It's all there. Step out right as soon as you can and then relax and enjoy the view. Great crux pitch! Apr 22, 2015
kswissto
Boulder, CO
  5.7
kswissto   Boulder, CO
  5.7
Agree to protect your second after the crux. However - protect them *above* the crux - on the left side of the dihedral AND the right side of the dihedral. This protects the swing into air (only way to get back on the climb is to prussik up) and the possibility of the rope swinging / grinding across the rough edge if they do fall. Oct 27, 2014
worth russell
Brooklyn, NY
 
worth russell   Brooklyn, NY
 
With the Oscar variation this is the best 5.7 in the gunks. Nov 28, 2011
S. Neoh  
Many years ago, I did this climb and Shockley's in the same afternoon. I thought this climb was better and more interesting than Shockley's, no disrespect to the man. Apr 11, 2011
divnamite
New York, NY
  5.7 PG13
divnamite   New York, NY
  5.7 PG13
An excellent climb! Crux is the roof, bring some small cams. Protect your follower after the crux, otherwise, it's a swing into air. Oct 23, 2009