Strictly From Nowhere
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Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's
|Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X|
|Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R|
|Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Art Gran, Jim Andress, 1959|
|Page Views:||15,574 total, 109/month|
|Shared By:||Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006|
DescriptionThe large roof on the first pitch is the main reason to climb this route. It's a blast!
P1: Climb to the right of a small tiered overhang near the ground. Wander up, aiming generally left towards the right-facing dihedral (the original route belayed here), then head up steep rock into the left-facing corner/roof. Work up into the roof, then escape right to the bolts (and protect your follower(s)!). Belay at bolts. 5.7, 100'.
P2: Follow the crack above to a right-facing dihedral and a sling belay at a tree. 5.4, 70'.
P2: Or for a better, more consistent 2nd pitch, follow the thin crack up to a tiny tree, then move up and left on hero holds through small overhangs to the top. Good pro, fun moves, more exposure (5.6, courtesy of Larry Hamilton).
Rap the route with one rope. There are bolts at the P1 belay.
LocationThe Strictly's access trail is where the East Trapps Connector trail meets the carriage road, about a 5-min. walk from the Uberfall.
This route starts almost directly above the access trail's end, on the face 25' left of the right-facing dihedral of Shockley's Ceiling, directly below a small tiered overhang.
Link-upsStrictly from Nowhere itself is classic enough - but there are several link-up opportunities that add even more value:
1) For a more-challenging start, climb the initial corner of Oscar and Charlie, just to the left, then aim towards the Strictly roof.
2) After the first pitch, you can traverse up and right (5.4) and belay at pins to link to the third pitch of Shockley's Ceiling, if the crowds allow.