Avg: 3.4 from 424 votes
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Art Gran, Jim Andress, 1959|
|Page Views:||19,563 total · 111/month|
|Shared By:||Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P1: Climb to the right of a small tiered overhang near the ground. Wander up, aiming generally left towards the right-facing dihedral (the original route belayed here), then head up steep rock into the left-facing corner/roof. Work up into the roof, then escape right to the bolts (and protect your follower(s)!). Belay at bolts. 5.7, 100'.
P2: Follow the crack above to a right-facing dihedral and a sling belay at a tree. 5.4, 70'.
P2: Or for a better, more consistent 2nd pitch, follow the thin crack up to a tiny tree, then move up and left on hero holds through small overhangs to the top. Good pro, fun moves, more exposure (5.6, courtesy of Larry Hamilton).
Rap the route with one rope. There are bolts at the P1 belay.
This route starts almost directly above the access trail's end, on the face 25' left of the right-facing dihedral of Shockley's Ceiling, directly below a small tiered overhang.
1) For a more-challenging start, climb the initial corner of Oscar and Charlie, just to the left, then aim towards the Strictly roof.
2) After the first pitch, you can traverse up and right (5.4) and belay at pins to link to the third pitch of Shockley's Ceiling, if the crowds allow.