Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 14,924 total · 110/month
Shared By: sqwirll on Nov 7, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


233 Opinions

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Description

Senior Citizens in Space is the obvious right facing corner. The climbing is consistent with no obvious crux move. Layback up the corner split by a couple of cracks on the left side. The angle lessens as you get higher. One of the best moderates at Index.

Belay at the 2 bolt anchor at top.

Location

Start 20' to the right of Battered Sandwich.

Descent:

Rappel from the 2 bolt anchor.

Protection

Heavy on finger sized cams. Gear to 2". Save a few small pieces for the top.
sqwirll
Las Vegas
  5.8
sqwirll   Las Vegas
  5.8
We cleaned the route on 3/22/08. It was still a little wet on 4/11/08. Apr 15, 2008
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.8
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.8
This is a really good route! It's the best 5.8 I've climbed and the best 5.8 at Index. For me the crux was where it steepens near the top, because there was a lot of debris in the crack and that made it a little hard to get jams. Jun 15, 2009
the crux for me was definitely getting into the corner system. after that the climb is a cruise. one of the best leads i've done anywhere! Jun 26, 2010
Nice route. Could be a 5.8 move getting onto it but from there it's pretty easy. Upper section is quality but not harder than 5.6. Sep 29, 2012
JRD
JRD  
Bring lots of 0.75s! Excellent route. Jul 20, 2015
Erik Heib
Greensboro, North Carolina
Erik Heib   Greensboro, North Carolina
Lots of pie size loose rock at the top. Be careful not to drop them on those below. Aug 10, 2017
Did today. Still quite dirty in the crack before it turns the corner, then cleans up nicely for the 2nd half and is straight in hands for quite a ways. Fantastic climb.

You could probably place as many BD purple and green as you wanted to, so don't be shy. Oct 30, 2017
Devin Bishop  
 
FYI serious erosion (5 feet of soil is gone!) has altered the start of this climb significantly in the last two years. What was one or two insecure moves to a ledge has become 15+ feet of finger/slab/stem trickiness. Finger size gear is available in this section fortunately if one needs it. Sep 2, 2018