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Routes in Private Idaho

900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Battered Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beckey-Stanley T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All (2) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Brave the suppressed laughter of the tweeny maid T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Curious Poses T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eraserhead S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Can See Your House From Here S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
I am in top a shader T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Imagine Your Best Student Here T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Istanbul T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Fern T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
S & S T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senior Citizens in Space T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spineless S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tea Bag S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Three trucks stacked on top of each other S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wet Dream T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wild Turkey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
prairie fire that wanders, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
unnamed 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 11,957 total, 98/month
Shared By: sqwirll on Nov 7, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Senior Citizens in Space is the obvious right facing corner. The climbing is consistent with no obvious crux move. Layback up the corner split by a couple of cracks on the left side. The angle lessens as you get higher. One of the best moderates at Index.

Belay at the 2 bolt anchor at top.

Location

Start 20' to the right of Battered Sandwich.

Descent:

Rappel from the 2 bolt anchor.

Protection

Heavy on finger sized cams. Gear to 2". Save a few small pieces for the top.
Did today. Still quite dirty in the crack before it turns the corner, then cleans up nicely for the 2nd half and is straight in hands for quite a ways. Fantastic climb.

You could probably place as many BD purple and green as you wanted to, so don't be shy. Oct 30, 2017
Erik Heib
Greensboro, North Carolina
Erik Heib   Greensboro, North Carolina
Lots of pie size loose rock at the top. Be careful not to drop them on those below. Aug 10, 2017
JRD
JRD  
Bring lots of 0.75s! Excellent route. Jul 20, 2015
Nice route. Could be a 5.8 move getting onto it but from there it's pretty easy. Upper section is quality but not harder than 5.6. Sep 29, 2012
the crux for me was definitely getting into the corner system. after that the climb is a cruise. one of the best leads i've done anywhere! Jun 26, 2010
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.8
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.8
This is a really good route! It's the best 5.8 I've climbed and the best 5.8 at Index. For me the crux was where it steepens near the top, because there was a lot of debris in the crack and that made it a little hard to get jams. Jun 15, 2009
sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
sqwirll   Las Vegas
 
We cleaned the route on 3/22/08. It was still a little wet on 4/11/08. Apr 15, 2008