Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jeff Emshoff, Sean Jones
Page Views: 6,743 total · 48/month
Shared By: DavidHH on Jun 7, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


175 Opinions

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is an exceptional moderate route located on the five and dime cliff. This is the 3rd bolted route once you turn the corner coming down the hill. Once you clip the 5th bolt you have to turn to your left and come over a small bulge to get the 6th bolt. I felt that after the second bolt the climbing was pretty consistent difficulty wise and the climb was just pure fun. I did not expect to find such a well bolted fun moderate sport route in the valley, kudos to the FA party on this gem.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with rap rings.
This is a fun pitch of moderate sport. I'd recommend it to anyone. Also, it is a good warm-up for the area.

The bolted arete to the left (Bijou .10c) is worthy of leads also. Jan 29, 2010
Mathew G
  5.8
Mathew G  
  5.8
Extremely well protected, makes a great first 5.8 sport lead. Leave 2-3 draws in around the dike area to prevent top-ropers from taking a big swing left. Sinker left hand jam at dike crux, or move right, or just mantle the thing. Oct 26, 2012
KG
SLC, UT
 
KG   SLC, UT
 
The best 5.8 I have ever climbed. May 14, 2015
Daniel Ozero
Calgary, AB
  5.9
Daniel Ozero   Calgary, AB
  5.9
Great for getting used to exposure. Feb 28, 2018